44 UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS


we founded Botallow to pioneer circular, traceable ingredients derived from New Zealand’s agricultural by-products. Supported by a grant by Callaghan Innovation,


New Zealand’s government agency for science and technology, to, new research is underway to evaluate the commercial and technical potential of tallow derived from lamb, pork, and other species. Each presents unique chemical and sensory


characteristics that may lend themselves to different product applications. ■ Lamb tallow - Typically softer and lower in stearic acid than beef, lamb fat offers a lighter, more spreadable texture and may suit facial care or rapid-absorption body products. ■ Pork lard - Rich in oleic acid, pork-derived lipids have a more fluid texture similar to olive oil. With proper deodorisation and purification, this could perform well in anhydrous or hybrid emulsions where a smooth glide and long-wear film are desired. ■ Mixed or speciality fats - Fats from deer, goat, or even marine species could hold promise in niche formulations, offering diverse lipid profiles and natural bioactives unique to each sources. By cataloguing the compositional and sensorial data for each tallow type, researchers hope to build a comparative matrix that cosmetic formulators can draw upon when selecting upcycled animal lipids for specific functions, from barrier restoration to rheology modification.


The science behind the ingredient At a molecular level, tallow is composed primarily of triglycerides - esters of glycerol and long-chain fatty acids. The specific distribution of these fatty acids determines each tallow’s melting point, spreadability, and skin feel. ■ Stearic and Palmitic Acids - Contribute to firmness, occlusivity, and structure. ■ Oleic Acid - Enhances spreadability and promotes deeper absorption. ■ Linoleic and Linolenic Acids - Offer anti- inflammatory properties and support the skin’s lipid barrier. ■ Natural Cholesterol - Support epidermal repair and improve moisturisation. This biochemical affinity to human sebum is


one of the reasons why tallow-based skincare often demonstrates high skin compatibility, particularly for dry, sensitive, or barrier-impaired skin types. When processed correctly, these naturally


balanced lipid ratios can outperform synthetic blends that attempt to replicate sebum’s composition. Furthermore, the inclusion of naturally occurring fat-soluble nutrients introduces antioxidant and regenerative benefits without the need for added actives. The challenge, historically, has been


perception, not performance. Many consumers and formulators have associated animal fats with heaviness, odour, or ethical concern. Yet modern purification and traceability standards can now overcome these barriers, making animal-derived lipids an increasingly legitimate choice for conscious beauty.


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE January 2026


wear occlusion. ■ Creams and lotions - As a natural alternative to petrolatum, providing a soft, cushiony texture. ■ Cleansing balms - Leveraging tallow’s lipid affinity to dissolve sebum and makeup effectively. ■ Soaps and syndet bars - Enhancing mildness, hardness, and conditioning. Hair care - As a natural emollient in pomades


and conditioning treatments. Typical inclusion levels range from 5–75%, depending on desired texture and function. For example, in a facial balm targeting barrier repair, a higher proportion of stearic-rich beef or lamb tallow provides structure and a protective finish. In lighter emulsions, blending with plant


oils such as jojoba or squalane can fine-tune sensory performance while maintaining sustainability integrity. From a manufacturing perspective,


refined tallow behaves predictably under heat


and shear, with a melting range of approximately 38–45°C. This makes it compatible with standard emulsification and filling processes, a practical advantage for formulators seeking natural but stable lipid bases.


Consumer perception and ethical considerations Today’s consumers are discerning. They expect transparency in both ingredient sourcing and brand values. When it comes to animal-derived materials, acceptance often hinges on three factors: 1. Source ethics - Whether the material is a


by-product of food production rather than a driver of slaughter. 2. Processing integrity - Whether it is


processed humanely, cleanly, and traceably. 3. Environmental justification - Whether it


contributes to waste reduction and replaces less sustainable alternatives. In markets such as New Zealand and Australia,


where livestock are pasture-raised and the food chain is tightly regulated, these conditions are well met. Transparency, including proof of origin, supplier certification, and lifecycle traceability, helps assure both manufacturers and consumers of responsible sourcing. In the context of upcycled beauty, animal-


derived ingredients occupy an interesting ethical position - they are not extracted at the expense of life, but rather derived from materials that would otherwise be discarded. This distinction is resonating with a new generation of eco-realists, consumers who prioritise circularity and resource efficiency over strict vegan definitions. Nonetheless, it remains vital for formulators


and marketers to communicate these nuances with care. Ethical storytelling, supported by clear scientific and environmental data, will be key to building consumer trust.


Formulation applications and performance Cosmetic-grade tallows can be incorporated across a range of personal care formats: ■ Anhydrous balms and butters - Where solid fat content provides stability, structure, and long-


Challenges and opportunities While the technical case for cosmetic-grade tallow is strong, there are still hurdles to widespread adoption: ■ Regulatory classification - Animal-derived ingredients must comply with regional cosmetic and biosecurity regulations. Clear documentation, safety data, and traceability are essential for international trade. ■ Supply chain scale - Dedicated cosmetic rendering facilities remain limited. Scaling requires collaboration between renderers, processors, and formulators. ■ Education - Many cosmetic chemists have limited experience working with animal lipids, leading to misconceptions about performance or odour. ■ Perception - Overcoming consumer hesitation requires consistent, transparent communication from brands Yet within these challenges lies opportunity.


As the global beauty industry faces increasing scrutiny over sustainability claims, genuine upcycling stories hold powerful appeal. Ingredients derived from existing agricultural by-products tick many boxes: waste reduction, traceability, performance, and provenance. International alignment is another area of opportunity. While the EU’s Cosmetic Regulation and the US FDA’s framework both permit animal-derived ingredients provided safety data is clear, regional interpretation varies. Asia- Pacific markets such as Japan and South Korea have begun revisiting definitions of ‘natural’ to include upcycled animal lipids. As harmonisation advances, transparent documentation and consistent nomenclature will be key to unlocking export potential.


The role of science and collaboration Scientific validation will be essential to


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