20 INTERVIEW In Cannes, we highlighted ozone
as a toxic pollutant. Ozone is an atmospheric pollutant, with well- known detrimental effects on human health such as increasing asthma, atopic disease etc. It forms in a lower layer
of atmosphere, and it’s a transformation between nitrogen oxide and volatile organic compounds. Volatile organic compounds
could come from road traffic, industrial activity but also vegetation. It is why you may have ozone form also in forests. Nitrogen oxide plus volatile
organic compounds, in addition to solar radiation and high temperatures, can lead to the development of ozone. So, ozone is almost everywhere, and with climate change, it is a growing threat. It is a pollutant that was not so
much widely known about, but we now know that it is a key factor in skin damage, especially for oxidation and inflammation. To be clear, this is tropospheric
ozone; it is not to be confused with the protective stratospheric ozone that is found higher in the atmosphere and protects us from the sun.
TP: In Cannes, Helena Rubinstein gave a presentation on how skin damage from tropospheric ozone could be prevented through an extract of Crithmum maritimum, also known as samphire or sea fennel. AG: Yes, we used native cells from samphire in combination in a serum. We found three things. In vitro,
we saw a reduction of oxidative stress coming from ozone on skin equivalent. Native cells from samphire were able to decrease this oxidation. Second, in an ex vivo test, we applied a serum containing native cells from samphire to skin explants. We created a photo-pollution model, not just ozone but also a lot of other pollutants like micro- particulates matters, UV and heavy metals. Because of the oxy-inflammatory
markers, we were able to demonstrate that we prevented oxydation and inflammation - thanks to the serum containing native cells from samphire. Finally, we conducted a clinical
study on a serum containing native cells from samphire against a neutral cream in harsh urban conditions. It was really interesting, because
inspired by the postoperative bandage developed by Dr. Pfulg’s Laclinic-Montreux. The water phase is outside, so the skin is not watery, it is more lipidic; there is a more lipidic film at the surface. The inverse emulsion has a lipid phase outside so In regard to skin, it is really a ‘lipid-lipid’. It is the same phase, so the bio-affinity with the surface of the face is very strong. Since the water is inside the
lipidic phase in the Replasty range, we have Pro-Xylane that is water soluble inside. So, it is able to be delivered more deeply into the layers of the skin while protecting the Pro-Xylane. The water-in-oil formulation is
like a ‘bandage’ cream. We call it a bandage cream because it needs to be massaged
into the skin to penetrate and bring more benefit.
TP: With your more than 30 years of experience in cosmetics, what are your views on the future of the industry? What does your crystal ball tell you? AG: For me there are four or five themes, or routes, I see the beauty industry taking. Firstly, scientific innovation in
Aesthetic procedures and skin care
creams can be very complementary Audrey Gueniche, international scientific director, Helena Rubinstein
we had two types of pollutant environment, and we were able to decrease imperfection, wrinkles and improve elasticity. It was a complete story of
detrimental effect on the skin from ozone - and protection thanks to the serum.
TP: Is the product that you tested in China available commercially? AG: Yes, it is called Powercell Skinmunity Serum.
TP: In terms of other active ‘hero ingredients’, what is interesting to Helena Rubinstein right now? AG: I cannot disclose what active ingredients we are working on, but what is interesting for us is the association between skin care creams and aesthetic procedures. Aesthetic procedures and
skin care creams can be very complementary.
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE January 2026
TP: How would a post-treatment skin care product differ from a normal anti-ageing or skin repair product? AG: Our Replasty Age Recovery products correspond to the needs of people with ageing skin and those seeking post-procedure recovery and results prolongation. For Replasty, we decided not to
make a ‘classical’ cream with direct emulsion. Direct emulsion means the water phase is outside, and the lipidic phase is inside. When it is applied, it’s very fresh and highly penetrative. But it is not particularly long-
lasting in terms of viscosity, so it would not be something you may want to use, for example, for a facial massage. For Replasty, we decided to
introduce a new, inverse water- in-oil emulsion with our own hero active, Pro-Xylane. It is directly
active ingredients, delivery systems and formulations. It is becoming more and more sophisticated. Things are possible now that were not possible before. Next, personalisation. Skin is
universal but everybody is different, and our skin changes depending on what is happening in our life, stress levels and so on. At home, I have different creams
for use on different days or different times of day. Personalisation is complex. It
can mean skin diagnosis online or in a store, and then the retailer can guide the customer on what to use today, next week, the next few months. This is the bare minimum of personalisation, really. Then there is sustainability. Like
all the brands, we are putting a lot of effort into it. Maybe in future, when you want to have a new cream, you won’t buy a complete jar. You would just use a refill, for example. Also, holistic beauty. The skin
connects with the brain. Good skin is dependent on wellbeing - with how you are, with what you eat, and what you are doing in your life. This is very important, and a holistic approach is really key for the future.
PCM
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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