RETINOL ALTERNATIVES 59
clinical trial with 44 participants aged 40–65 years.9
Subjects applied either a serum containing
1.0% Peauvita (Oleosome-EGF) + 1% Peauforia (Oleosome-FGF2), or a serum with 0.3% retinol (maximum allowed in the EU). ■ Primary endpoints: Wrinkle depth and length (measured with Antera 3D). ■ Secondary outcomes: Skin firmness, elasticity, barrier integrity (TEWL), and brightness.
Results Wrinkle depth Oleosome-GF serum decreased wrinkle depth by 18.6% on Day 14 and by 25.2% on Day 30. Retinol decreased wrinkle depth by 9.2% on Day 14; 16.3% on Day 30. The Oleosome-GF serum achieved statistical significance at both time points, whereas retinol only on Day 30.
Wrinkle length Oleosome-GF serum decreased wrinkle length by 13.7% on Day 14 and by 27.2% on Day 30. Retinol decreased wrinkle length by 7.6% on Day 14; and 22.2% on Day 30. Again, the Oleosome-GF serum achieved statistical significance at both timepoints, whereas retinol only on Day 30.
Skin smoothness 77% of participants improved with Oleosome-GF serum vs. 59% with retinol.
Skin brightness Participants achieved statistically significant improvement by Day 30 with Oleosome-GF serum, not with retinol.
Barrier function (TEWL) Oleosome-GF serum reduced TEWL by −25.1% at Day 14 and −30.7% at Day 30. Retinol: −14.3% and −23.9%, respectively. Extended endpoints included subjective
measures of comfort and radiance, which corroborated instrumental findings. The data demonstrated faster onset, superior wrinkle reduction, stronger barrier support, and improved tolerability compared to retinol, confirming the clinical relevance of the oleosome delivery system.
Molecular farming In 2024, Core Biogenesis inaugurated Europe’s first industrial-scale molecular farming facility, operating under ISO 9001 standards. This milestone marked the transition from proof- of-concept to commercial production, making human-identical growth factors broadly accessible for skin care formulations. Molecular farming leverages plants as living
biofactories to produce recombinant proteins. In Core Biogenesis’ platform, Camelina sativa oilseed plants are engineered to express human- identical or biomimetic epidermal growth factor (EGF) and fibroblast growth factor-2 (FGF-2) directly on the surface of oleosomes, Mother Nature’s lipid reservoirs. Compared to microbial fermentation or mammalian cell culture, molecular farming offers multiple advantages: ■ No animal-derived inputs: Enables vegan and
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cruelty-free alternatives for traditionally animal- derived molecules including collagen, keratin, or elastin. ■ Purity and safety: There is no risk of contamination of animal pathogens. The controlled composition increases purity, as plants can be engineered to produce only the desired molecules. ■ Carbon-conscious cultivation: Photosynthesis replaces CO2
-intensive bioreactors, lowering
environmental impact. ■ Low environmental footprint: Requires less water, energy, and land than animal-based or fermentation-based systems. ■ Scalability: Production can increase by expanding greenhouse cultivation rather than building expensive infrastructure. ■ Consistency: Closed greenhouse systems ensure uniform quality, traceability, and reproducibility. Regulatory alignment is also critical. By avoiding mammalian systems, molecular farming simplifies compliance with European regulations on animal- free testing and aligns with the growing number of
countries restricting animal-derived raw materials. Moreover, plant-based platforms present no risk of viral contamination, which regulators increasingly view as a major safety advantage. For cosmetic chemists, molecular farming
represents a paradigm shift: bioactives once limited by cost, availability, and ethical concerns are now accessible for mainstream formulation development, enabling a new generation of high- performance, sustainable skin care. The approach also facilitates large-scale reproducibility, a major barrier for growth factors previously confined to small-batch research applications.
Formulation science and regulatory implications Oleosome-fused growth factors provide technical advantages for formulators. Their stability reduces the need for antioxidants or stabilizers, simplifying formulations. They are compatible with a wide range of emulsions, gels, and serums, integrating seamlessly with both aqueous and oil phases.
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