24 PEPTIDES
activity. In 2D cultures, the bioactive peptide at
0.25–2.0 mg/mL increased pro-C1 secretion by 2.8–3.4-fold over 24 hours. For comparison, TGFβ increased secretion by 1.9-fold, while vitamin C alone boosted it 4.9-fold. Retinoic acid (RA) and hyaluronic acid (HA) showed no significant effects. Combining the bioactive peptide with 50
µg/mL of vitamin C further amplified collagen secretion. Over 24 hours, this combination increased pro-C1 levels 9.8–11.3-fold. Longer- term measurements at 72 and 120 hours showed sustained increases of 1.4–2.5-fold and 2.6–4.5- fold, respectively. These results suggest that vitamin C can
enhance the bioactive peptide’s effect, promoting prolonged collagen secretion and potentially supporting firmer, more resilient skin over time.
Stimulating collagen production in skin cells Beyond secretion, the bioactive peptide actively enhances intracellular collagen levels. Research shows that the bioactive peptide encourages fibroblasts to both produce and secrete collagen over extended periods. Type I collagen, the most abundant collagen
in skin, provides structural support, while Type III collagen contributes to skin elasticity. The amount of collagen protein in cells reflects how much is actually available for tissue repair, while mRNA levels indicate the gene activity behind its production. Increasing these levels can help improve skin firmness, reduce wrinkles, and support healing. In lab studies, treatment with 0.25 mg/mL
bioactive peptide increased intracellular Type I collagen and Type III collagen by 1.4-fold and 2.2-fold, respectively, while higher doses trended toward baseline. This shows that the bioactive peptide enhances collagen secretion while
Untreated
Epidermis SC SB
Papillary Dermis
Reticular Dermis
Untreated ■ 2 mg/mL 27P peptide-AF594 ■ 10 mg/mL 27P peptide-AF594 ■ 120 100
80 30
20 10 0
*
Basal Keratinocytes ****
Papillary Dermis 120 100 *
80 30
*
20 10 0
24h (No VC)
24h + 72h (With VC)
* *** 24h (No VC)
24h + 72h (With VC)
Figure 1: Quantification of 27P peptide penetration in 3D skin model
maintaining internal collagen stores — a sign of active new collagen synthesis. For comparison, TGFβ and HA also boosted
intracellular collagen, whereas RA and vitamin C reduced it, likely because increased secretion depleted internal stores faster than cells could produce new collagen. Remarkably, the bioactive peptide was able
to reverse vitamin C-induced collagen loss, increasing Type I collagen 4.3-fold and Type III collagen 11.1-fold. Across a range of doses, the bioactive peptide raised Type I collagen 1.4–2.0-fold and Type III collagen 2.2–2.3-fold at higher doses, highlighting its ability to support intracellular collagen even when other compounds deplete it.
These findings suggest that the bioactive
peptide works through a mechanism distinct from traditional actives, targeting the translation
2 mg/mL 27P peptide-AF594
of collagen rather than its gene expression. By helping skin cells produce and maintain collagen efficiently, the bioactive peptide shows strong potential as a next-generation ingredient for firmer, more resilient skin.
Boosting collagen production and remodeling in skin cells Collagen deposition into the extracellular matrix is critical for skin strength and elasticity. Research shows that the bioactive peptide helps dermal fibroblasts both secrete and deposit collagen into the extracellular matrix. When fibroblasts were treated with 0.25 mg/
mL bioactive peptide, total collagen deposition increased by 12% after three days and 19% after five days, comparable to the effects of the well- known growth factor TGFβ. Increasing the dose to 1.0 mg/mL boosted collagen deposition even
10 mg/mL 27P peptide-AF594
ZOOM
20 10 0
ns * ** 120 100
80 30
ns ns
Reticular Dermis ***
24h (No VC)
24h + 72h (With VC)
Figure 2: Q27P peptide penetration through intact epidermis in 3D skin model in 24h PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE January 2026
www.personalcaremagazine.com
10 mg/mL 27P peptide-AF594
2 mg/mL 27P peptide-AF594
Untreated
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