MARINE INGREDIENTS 49 A -16% -21%
between supporting endogenous HA production and applying HA topically. Many moisturizers include hyaluronic acid (HA) or sodium hyaluronate to boost hydration. As recent research demonstrates that HA of varying molecular weights can penetrate into both the epidermis and dermis,8
though larger molecules do so less
efficiently—penetration efficiency decreases as molecular weight increases, one must not forget that when applied topically, HA acts as a biologic humectant9: it draws in and retains water in the skin’s surface layers, delivering immediate but largely temporary hydration benefits. By comparison, stimulating endogenous HA
B
210 200 190 180 170 160 150 0
Figure 5A and 5B: Seboregulation, day 1 to day 28
of antioxidant metabolites likely provides a multifaceted blockade against hyaluronidase. By both increasing HA synthesis and
preventing HA breakdown, the bioactivated extract effectively supports the maintenance and longevity of the skin’s hyaluronic acid reservoir. While topically applied HA can reach the epidermis and even the dermis to varying degrees depending on its molecular weight, higher- molecular-weight forms penetrate less efficiently.8 The extract’s ability to stimulate endogenous
HA production offers a targeted and biologically integrated approach that can either complement or substitute exogenous HA, particularly in formulations aiming for deeper hydration and
structural skin support. Boosting internal HA production improves
hydration in the deeper epidermal and dermal layers, leading to more substantive and longer- term anti-ageing benefits. Prolonging the presence of hyaluronic acid in the skin can help support a plumper, more youthful-looking complexion by counteracting the natural decline in HA that contributes to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and sagging skin.
Endogenous versus topical hyaluronic acid When comparing strategies to maintain skin hydration and structure, a crucial distinction lies
16% 21%
synthesis allows the skin to produce HA within its natural layers—namely within the dermal and epidermal extracellular matrix where it plays a structural and moisture-retaining role. This internally produced HA is continually managed by the skin’s own cellular systems, potentially leading to more enduring benefits such as enhanced volume, elasticity, and resilience. Moreover, boosting internal HA levels not
14 Time (days) 28
only replenishes moisture but also helps support collagen and elastic fibres by enriching the matrix that underpins skin firmness. As a result, this strategy targets the root cause of age-related hydration loss and structural decline, rather than treating just the superficial symptom. This concept offers a more integrated and sustainable approach to skin care. It pairs structural support from within with moisture retention, creating deeper, longer- lasting anti-ageing benefits beyond the reach of conventional topical HA treatments.
Skin ageing in oily and combination skin Not all skin types age in the same way, and one of the key challenges in formulating anti-ageing products is addressing the needs of oily or combination skin. While these skin types are prone to excess sebum production, which can lead to enlarged pores, unwanted shine, and breakouts, they also undergo the same age- related changes such as loss of firmness, fine lines, and dryness in certain areas. This dual concern— managing sebum while maintaining hydration and anti-ageing efficacy—makes product development particularly complex for combination and oily mature skin.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
January 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
Skin sebum (ug/cm2
)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72
