30 MANUFACTURE Flavour and fragrance esters: Enzymatic
synthesis of isoamyl laurate, benzyl benzoate, and linalyl acetate has been demonstrated at pilot and production scale with conversions >95% under solvent-free conditions (Hyla et al, 2025). Besides lower energy input, these processes deliver cleaner odour profiles because there are fewer side products. Structured lipids and MCTs: Food-industry
experience has proven that immobilized lipases can effectively convert fatty-acid streams into tailored triglycerides. The same logic applies to cosmetic emollients, providing inspiration and confidence for personal-care manufacturers. Biobased surfactant intermediates: Enzyme-
catalysed amidation of fatty methyl esters with sarcosine or amino acids avoids chlorinated intermediates, yielding mild amphoterics with improved biodegradability (Tripathy et al, 2018). Chiral actives and fine chemicals: In pharma
and fragrance sectors, alcohol dehydrogenases and transaminases have become routine for producing single-enantiomer alcohols and amines at multi-ton scale. These same enzymes can produce fragrance alcohols such as citronellol and menthol analogues with precise stereochemistry (Bornscheuer 2023 review). Each of these examples underscores a pattern: when enzymes are properly integrated into industrial workflows, they can match or exceed the efficiency of conventional catalysis while cutting environmental impact.
Biocatalysis still underused, but hurdles can be surmounted Yet despite compelling examples, biocatalysis remains underused in personal-care manufacturing. Some of the hurdles that have limited broader deployment include: ■ Fragility and lifetime: free enzymes often lose activity after one use, making them uneconomic compared with mineral catalysts. ■ Substrate scope constrains: The selective nature of enzymes often comes with restrictions on the bulkiness or functionalization of the starting compounds. ■ Compatibility: enzymes can be deactivated under extreme conditions such as organic solvents or high shear.
■ Cost and supply: enzymes can be expensive, and uncertainty around reuse or storage stability discourages process engineers. A combination of enzyme immobilization, engineering, and process optimization can overcome many of these limitations, often entirely. On an economic level, cost parity with traditional catalysts is now realistic. Modern immobilized enzymes offer extensive reuse, bringing effective catalyst costs in line with chemical methods once energy and waste-treatment savings are included. Companies like Enginzyme, with integrated R&D spanning enzyme design, efficient and general immobilization technology, and process development, are accelerating industrial adoption of enzymatic manufacturing. A common misconception is that adopting
enzymes requires radical process redesign. In practice, biocatalysis can often fit into existing chemical infrastructure. Stainless-steel stirred- tank reactors, and even fixed-bed columns, can host enzymatic steps with zero or just minor modifications. Generally, mild optimum temperatures for
biocatalytic processes further improve integration into production of heat-sensitive intermediates
where classical chemistry would cause substantial degradation of substrates or products. In turn, while sustainability headlines often dominate, practitioners emphasize other tangible benefits: Product quality improvement with fewer side-
reactions — leading to higher colour and odour purity. This is critical in fragrances and leave-on products. Energy savings — reactions almost always run
at lower temperatures and pressures. Simplified downstream processing: the
formation of by-products is reduced or even eliminated.
These operational gains translate directly into
competitive advantage, especially for mid-sized ingredient manufacturers seeking differentiation without capital-intensive plant overhauls. Taken together, these developments, benefits and limitations position biocatalysis not as a full replacement for chemistry or fermentation but often as an alternative, a platform that when applied wisely combines the reliability of chemical manufacturing with the precision and selectivity of biology. It leverages existing assets while unlocking creative new molecules.
The next era of ingredient manufacturing At Enginzyme, we take biocatalysis beyond confinement to single reactions by embedding it throughout process design, from early intermediate synthesis to late-stage finishing, forming the invisible backbone of next-generation plants that would consume less energy, produce less waste, and generate high quality products. The industry has the tools to make biocatalysis
a standard part of manufacturing practice. Companies that embrace this shift early will not only meet sustainability targets but will be able to create new ingredient classes and fresh market narratives built on precision, efficiency, and authenticity. The future of personal care manufacturing will
not belong solely to chemists or biologists, but to those who master both.
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE January 2026 PCM
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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