UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS 43
Tallow: from by-product to beauty ingredient
Sara Corleison, Jane James - Botallow
New Zealand’s agricultural sector is globally recognised for its grass-fed beef and lamb, yet much of the value within these supply chains remains untapped. Every year, large quantities of animal by-products such as suet and fat are either discarded, downcycled into industrial tallow or exported as low-grade commodities. Historically, these materials have been viewed as waste rather than as a source of innovation. In recent years, however, a quiet revolution has been taking place. Local innovators are revisiting ancestral ingredients through a scientific and sustainability lens, finding new applications for animal-derived lipids in skin care, hair care, and other personal care formulations. One such initiative began with the refinement of beef suet into cosmetic-grade tallow, a nutrient-rich emollient known for its skin compatibility and ability to mimic human sebum. The result is a material that bridges New
Zealand’s agricultural strength with its growing natural beauty sector, representing a truly homegrown, circular approach to cosmetic formulation.
The rise of cosmetic-grade tallow While tallow has been used for centuries in soapmaking and traditional skincare, its renaissance in modern formulations has been fuelled by advances in rendering and purification technology. Unlike culinary or industrial tallows, cosmetic-grade tallow is derived exclusively from suet, the clean, dense fat surrounding the kidneys that yields a higher-purity product with minimal odour and superior stability. Through a combination of gentle wet rendering,
controlled dehydration, and filtration, suet can be transformed into a highly stable lipid that retains its natural integrity and performs exceptionally well in formulation. The resulting material offers excellent oxidative stability and a rich, balanced profile of natural fatty acids that contribute to deep hydration, barrier support, and a soft, cushiony skin feel. As demand for sustainable, traceable
ingredients grows, this refinement of a traditional by-product into a premium cosmetic input represents both an environmental and commercial opportunity.
Upcycling in action - the sustainability imperative The beauty industry is under increasing pressure to demonstrate credible sustainability credentials,
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not only through packaging or carbon offsets, but through ingredient sourcing and lifecycle impact. Upcycling, in this context, means transforming waste streams into high-value materials that displace virgin resources. Animal fats offer a compelling example. In New
Zealand alone, thousands of tonnes of suet, fat, and offal are rendered for low-value industrial use each year. By selectively redirecting a portion of this material toward cosmetic-grade production, processors can achieve three key sustainability outcomes: 1. Waste reduction - Capturing and purifying
existing by-products prevents them from entering waste or low-value rendering streams. 2. Circularity - Upcycled tallow becomes
part of a regenerative system linking primary agriculture with secondary manufacturing in a value-added loop. 3. Displacement of unsustainable inputs - By
replacing imported palm derivatives or synthetic emollients with local, traceable alternatives, the industry reduces deforestation and supply chain emissions. This approach also aligns with consumer shifts
toward authentic sustainability. Today’s buyers increasingly seek proof that materials are sourced ethically, processed transparently, and backed by measurable environmental impact, not just marketing claims.
By harnessing animal-derived by-products
already within the food system, New Zealand manufacturers can offer an ingredient story that is both circular and inherently traceable, supported by the country’s strict agricultural and animal welfare standards. New Zealand’s agricultural traceability
framework offers a strong foundation for ingredient upcycling. From farm registration and animal identification through to export certification, every step is documented, audited, and verifiable. This transparency gives global cosmetic brands confidence in origin and quality, ensuring that claims of circularity and ethical sourcing can be substantiated. For ingredient buyers, such provenance data
represents a differentiator in an increasingly regulated sustainability landscape.
Beyond beef - exploring new species With the successful establishment of cosmetic- grade beef tallow as a viable and desirable ingredient, attention is now turning to the next frontier - alternative tallows. Botallow is New Zealand’s first and largest
cosmetic-grade tallow ingredient supplier. Combining Sara’s background in cosmetic
formulation and brand development with Jane’s expertise in sustainability and product innovation,
January 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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