62 ANTI-AGEING


Anti-ageing properties ofAngelica essence


France Fannes - Natix


Ageing is a multifactorial, complex, three- dimensional, dynamic, and generally variable process with anatomical, biochemical, and genetic correlates, in which both intrinsic and extrinsic determinants lead to a progressive loss of structural integrity and physiological function.1,3


A dry cutaneous appearance, rough


texture, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and decreased production of dermal extracellular matrix (collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin) are the primary clinical manifestations of skin ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin occurs inevitably as


a natural consequence of physiological changes over time at variable yet inalterable genetically determined rates. It is characterized by fine wrinkles and a thinning epidermis.17,6 On the other hand, extrinsic ageing depends


upon extrinsic factors that can be modulated to a variable extent and include exposure to sunlight, pollution or nicotine, repetitive muscle movements like squinting or frowning, and miscellaneous lifestyle components such as diet, position and overall health. It is characterized by deep wrinkles, skin laxity, and hyperpigmentation.15 Biologically, every person gets older at a


different speed that is influenced by imbalance, disharmony, and disproportion of the ageing process between the overlying soft tissue and the underlying bony frameworks. However, regardless


corneum Cuticle


Epidermis Stratum


Granular layer


Prickle layer


Basal layer


Collagen Elastin


Dermis


Hyaluronic acid


Figure 1: Cellular and molecular structure of human skin. Schematic depiction of the structure of human skin, including ECM molecules such as collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Human skin ageing is accompanied by a progressive loss of hyaluronic acid, breakdown of the elastin fibres, atrophy of collagen fibres and strength and flexibility loss, giving rise to a slower ‘bounce back’ of the skin


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE January 2026


of the ageing type, wrinkles and reduced elasticity are hallmarks of skin ageing and the result of progressive atrophy of the dermis. One of the main mechanisms of dermal


atrophy is thought to be a reduction in the amount of extracellular matrix (ECM), including collagens, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) such as chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan


sulfate, heparan sulfate, heparin, and hyaluronic acid.11


The skin has three layers: the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue. With the ageing process of the skin, these three components undergo degenerative changes, and changes to the dermis are the most obvious. Unlike the epidermis, which is made up of dense keratinocytes, the dermis is comprised primarily of an acellular component, the ECM. Collagen fibres are a major component of the


Ceramides


ECM, accounting for 75% of the dry weight of skin, and provide tensile strength and elasticity. In human skin, type I collagen makes up 80 to 90% of the total collagen, while type III makes up 8 to 12%, and type V makes up <5%.10 In contrast to young skin, which has abundant,


tightly packed, and well-organized intact collagen fibrils, aged skin has fragmented and coarsely distributed collagen.9 Previous studies have shown that increased


collagen degradation and reduced collagen biosynthesis are both involved in this aberrant collagen homeostasis, which results in a net collagen deficiency. With the passage of time, ageing elicits the reduction of 1% of collagen content yearly.4 In the same direction, for photoaged skin, a striking characteristic is the accumulation of abnormal elastic tissue deep in the dermis, a pathologic phenotype named solar elastosis.


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