RETINOL ALTERNATIVES 57
Sustainable, plant-based alternative to retinol
Tony Abboud, Erin Schmidt - Core Biogenesis ABSTRACT
Consumer expectations are shifting. Consumers correlate the appearance of radiant, healthy skin with wellness. In McKinsey’s State of Fashion Beauty 2025 Report survey, 44% of consumers defined beauty as taking care of the mind and body, with over 50% of consumers considering skin care to be a key contributor to their wellness routine, akin to physical exercise.1 The US skin care market is projected to surpass
$31.2 billion by 2030, driven by consumers of all ages embracing preventive care. Despite the burgeoning skin care market, over 90% of women surveyed in 2023 reported frustration with products that failed to deliver visible results, and more than three-quarters noted it often takes over two months before improvements become noticeable.2,3 For more than three decades, retinoids have
been the gold standard for rejuvenating skin. The actives influence epidermal turnover, stimulate collagen synthesis, and reduce visible signs of ageing such as fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven texture. However, their limitations are equally well documented: chemical instability in formulations, susceptibility to photodegradation, and irritation- related side effects, including erythema, peeling, and compromised barrier function, often make long-term adherence difficult.4 Consumers expect more from their skin care
and beauty products than simply performance. Today’s consumers are eco-conscious and expect
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clean, non-toxic products that are made from natural ingredients and are environmentally friendly. In a 2024 sustainability survey, 31% of
respondents reported that sustainable products are highly considered in skin care products. In the same survey, respondents ranked the factors of importance when choosing sustainable skin care products.5 ■ 48% - free from toxins ■ 42% - made from natural ingredients ■ 34% - as effective as conventional products ■ 32% - ethically sourced ingredients ■ 31% - made with organic ingredients
Bridging the gap: building an effective, plant-based, sustainable solution Core Biogenesis set out to develop the next generation skin care solution to meet the demands of today’s consumer – one that wants radiant, smooth skin using the purest ingredients. “We’re seeing a clear shift: people no longer
separate efficacy from responsibility,” says Alexandre Reeber, CEO and co-founder of Core Biogenesis. “Our goal was to prove that biotechnology
can deliver the same—or better—results than traditional actives, without compromising on safety or sustainability. Through molecular farming, we can produce growth factors that are bioidentical to human proteins, entirely plant-
After four years of research and development, French biotechnology company Core Biogenesis has introduced a next-generation alternative: Oleosome-Growth Factors, powering two biomimetic actives—Peauvita™ (Oleosome-EGF) and Peauforia™ (Oleosome- FGF-2). Through proprietary plant-based molecular farming, the company produces human-identical growth factors naturally fused into Camelina sativa seed oleosomes, creating a vegan, renewable, scalable, low impact production system. This fusion confers 8–10× greater stability, targeted dermal delivery, and accelerated visible results. In a 60-day randomized, head-to-head clinical trial against 0.3% retinol, a serum containing 1.0% Oleosome-EGF and 1.0% Oleosome- FGF-2 demonstrated superior outcomes across multiple ageing markers: wrinkle depth (-25.2% vs. -16.3%), wrinkle length (-27.2% vs. -22.2%), skin smoothness (77% improved vs. 59%), and skin brightness (significant increase vs. retinol). No irritation was reported. As consumers increasingly prioritize products that are both effective and responsible, Core Biogenesis positions its Oleosome-Growth Factors as the new benchmark in rejuvenation skin care: biomimetic, clinically proven, ethically produced, and reflective of a new era where performance, purity, and planet- conscious innovation converge. This article explores the biotechnological foundation of molecular farming, the functional advantages of oleosome delivery, and the clinical evidence positioning oleosome-delivered growth factors as a superior and sustainable alternative to retinol
derived, and clinically proven to outperform retinol—all while reducing environmental impact.” Founded in 2020, the French biotechnology
company’s mission is to build the world’s most scalable and sustainable plant-based bioproduction platform to make recombinant proteins for the biopharmaceutical, cell therapy, and skin care industry. After four years of research and development,
the company developed oleosome-growth factors, leveraging the camelina plant seed. Using the plant’s natural design, the company developed a
January 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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