R SUN CARE 93
CI-77491, CI-77499) showed no toxicity, no Ti solubility and particles higher than 100nm in size.
The immobilization test (ISO/TS 20787:2017)
was used to evaluate the toxicity (up to 48 hours, five test concentrations, three replicates) on brine shrimp Artemia sp. nauplii. EHMC was the most toxic UV filter, reducing brine shrimp motility at all tested concentrations, from 0.001 to 100 mg/L, at both 24 hours and 48 hours. When exposed to inorganic filters, toxicity
was dependent on the filter, time and concentration (Figure 2). To analyze the toxicity, we can focus on observing in which conditions of concentration and time there is no or minimal nauplii motility. Marked effects (0 mobile nauplii) were
observed in the following scenarios, ordered from highest to lowest effect: nano-ZnO at 10- 100mg/L (after 24 hours and 48 hours); ZnO at 10mg/L (after 48h) and 100mg/L (after 24 and 48h); TiO2
at 10-100mg/L (after 48 hours). Lower toxicological effect was observed
for U series: US at 10-100mg/L (after 48 hours while 1 mobile nauplii after 24 hours); UT and UTM at 100mg/L (48h while 2-3 1 mobile nauplii after 24 hours). In addition, when looking at the beginning of the graphs it is observed that US, UT and UTM mineral filters need higher concentration to start showing toxic effect. EHMC is toxic at a concentration 105-106
times lower than the concentration of mineral filters. Among the mineral UV filters, the toxicity to Artemia sp. nauplii depends on time and concentration, chemical composition and particle size (Figure 3). Higher effects were observed for zinc oxide, more pronounced if nanometric, in the following order: nano-ZnO
Vibrio fischeri
> ZnO. Following in decreasing order, titanium dioxide showed somewhat higher toxicity than US they could be considered close. The explanation could be found on the
particle size of US, larger than titanium dioxide (the release of zinc or titanium is not sufficient here to justify toxicity differences). In addition, the combination of titanium oxide and zinc oxide in US structure seems to contribute to lower toxicity. Finally, UT (Titanium Dioxide, Silica) and
UTM (Titanium Dioxide, CI-77492, Silica, CI- 77491, CI-77499) were the less toxic UV filters. This could be explained by no remarkable Ti (and Fe) solubility and particles higher than 100nm in size. Also note the U series concentration would not occur in the ocean.
Conclusions Results obtained in the luminescent bacteria test agrees well with the results obtained in the Artemia sp. nauplii toxicity assay and showed good sensitivity to discern the toxicity of the different UV filters tested. All
mineral filters evaluated, regardless of their composition, are less toxic than the chemical filter EHMC used as a reference. Nanometer-sized zinc oxide filter was
found more toxic than non-nanometer-sized ZnO filter and this has been related to a higher release of Zn into the aquatic environment of the nanometric filter. Taken together, results indicated that toxicity
of organic and inorganic UV filters is as follows: EHMC >> nano-ZnO > ZnO > TiO2
> enhanceU-S,
US > enhanceU-T-medium, UTM ≥ enhanceU-T, UT. enhanceU range mineral filters here studied (with particle size greater than 100 nm) make it possible to reduce the impact of sunscreen ingredients in the marine environment. These ingredients and its combinations can be used for the development of more sustainable cosmetic formulations for the protection of all skin phototypes. Additionally, enhanceU filters are ECOCERT
and COSMOS certified, 100% of Natural origin content according to Natural ISO 16128. enhanceU filters are FDA registered and fabricated by ADPCosmetics according to GMP, ISO 9001 and ISO 22716.
References 1. Downs CA, Kramarsky-Winter E et al. Toxicopathological Effects of the Sunscreen UV Filter, Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3), on Coral Planulae and Cultured Primary Cells and Its Environmental Contamination in Hawaii and the U.S. Virgin Islands. Arch Environ Contam Toxicol. 2016 Feb;70(2):265-88
2. Shinn H. United States. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Office of Oceanic and Atmospheric Research; NOAA Central Library; United States, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration; Coral Reef Conservation Program (U.S.); (2019) The Effects of Ultraviolet Filters and Sunscreen on Corals and Aquatic Ecosystems. NCRL subject guide 2019-11
3 Bernstein EF, Sarkas HW et al. Iron oxides in novel skin care formulation attenuate blue light for enhanced protection against skin damage. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021; 20:532–537
4 Lyons AB, Trullas C et al. Photoprotection beyond ultraviolet radiation: A review of tinted sunscreens. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021; 84:1393-1397
5 Motos-Pérez B. Average-size minerals for UV, Vis & IR protection. Personal Care Global. 2022; January: 16-18
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Figure 3: Ecotoxicity increase on Artemia salina dependent on filter characteristics
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