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The ‘more than natural’ era As demand for natural ingredients intensified, so did awareness of the environmental consequences of sourcing these materials. The beauty industry began to grapple with the reality of natural habitat destruction and the devastating impact of deforestation caused by palm oil monoculture plantations in southeast Asia.
This awakening made people realize that
‘natural’ needed to be environmentally friendly and sustainable as well, adding multiple new parameters and considerable complexity to the equation of green and ethical beauty. The organiser of the in-cosmetics Global
trade show, RX Global, recognized this challenge early, launching the Sustainability Corner in 2017. Later rebranded as the Sustainability Zone, this dedicated area was designed to showcase new ingredient launches and initiatives aimed at raising awareness and driving sustainable innovation throughout the industry. I began moderating this space in 2018,
and since then, I have witnessed incredible advancement in green chemistry, both in terms of complexity and available data. Suppliers began to understand the
critical importance of staying relevant in an increasingly competitive market and started developing new initiatives, investing heavily in new factories, advanced technologies, and comprehensive life cycle analyses (LCAs). Initially, there was some resistance from
traditional petrochemical suppliers who argued that their products were superior, but eventually, even these players realized it was more strategic to join the sustainability trend rather than fight against it. At this year’s Sustainability Zone in
Amsterdam, I observed suppliers offering natural ingredients that no longer compromise on performance while providing valuable environmental data that can be used for LCAs. This environmental data represents
more than just marketing material; these metrics serve as valuable tools for optimizing manufacturing processes, helping brands lower their overall environmental impact and reduce their Scope 3 emissions. The Sustainability Zone also featured a
strong presence of ingredients made from upcycled biomass. Interestingly, some ingredients that had been on the market for years were now proudly promoting their upcycled origins—something that had been kept quiet in the past. Upcycling has become a significant
trend in the beauty industry because it is easily understood by consumers and can deliver genuine environmental benefits, particularly when linked to
reducing waste from the food industry. Supply chain considerations have taken
centre stage as well, encompassing themes from supply chain resilience and transparency to fair working conditions and biodiversity conservation. These factors are no longer nice- to-have additions but essential components of any comprehensive sustainability strategy. One of the most innovative and exciting
developments in the marketplace is regenerative beauty. This approach goes beyond simply using natural ingredients; it actively gives back to nature and focuses on regenerating habitats to benefit wildlife and biodiversity. A prime example of this trend is Davines, which operates 19 farms in Italy under the Regenerative Organic Alliance standard. These farms supply ingredients used
across several products in the Davines range, and the research supporting regenerative farming benefits is ongoing and promising. Published studies have documented increases in night pollinators and a four-fold increase in chamomile oil production yields, demonstrating tangible benefits beyond marketing claims.
The tools era: unravelling complexity and transparency Looking back at the simple approach of defining natural products purely by ingredient origin now seems rather naive, but it was fundamental in taking us to where we are today: natural and sustainable.
The question, ‘What does sustainability
mean?’, is still being answered, but it is clear that we are moving toward a multi- parametric approach that considers numerous processes involved in manufacturing cosmetic products. This includes the biomass source, transformation methods, supply chain ethics, product end-of-life considerations, and even emissions involved in product use. This comprehensive approach requires
extensive data gathering—not just any data, but reliable and ideally validated information. While this may seem challenging, given market direction and consumer expectations, it is something the industry must embrace. Progressive suppliers have begun to understand this reality and are now offering their own tools to help formulators navigate the selection process more effectively. After years of struggling to keep up with
the latest launches of green multifunctional ingredients, I decided to develop my own
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