R MENOPAUSAL SKIN CARE 85
Targeting post-menopausal skin with niacinamide
Dominik Imfeld, Beatrice Albanese - DSM-Firmenich
It is the commitment to research and discovery which drives forward DSM-Firmenich’s scientific leadership in the beauty industry. Understanding the complex skin biochemistry that underpins skin’s physiology and being able to address problems at a molecular level, is especially important when developing effective beauty products. Faced with the numerous distressing
changes that skin undergoes during the menopause; formulators expect to have to solve the challenge of combining multiple active ingredients to create a single effective product. However, scientists at DSM-Firmenich have solved this dilemma with the discovery that Niacinamide PC, hereafter known as the niacinamide active, can effectively address the majority of these changes. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, which
has a long history of safe effective use in skin care. Beatrice Albanese, senior global marketing manager of skin care vitamins at DSM- Firmenich says, “Niacinamide has long been recognized for its many benefits for the skin, but what we discovered offers a fresh perspective on its use. “We have been able to confirm an
impressive ability to enhance overall skin health and resilience of post-menopausal skin, with significant results in addressing many changes that affect not only skin’s appearance but also women’s confidence during this multi-change period.”
The menopause was once a taboo topic
but today it is now openly discussed, and the increasingly ageing population expects the beauty industry to provide effective solutions. This has led to significant growth in beauty products targeting menopausal skin.
The menopause and its impact on skin and wellbeing During the menopause, declining and fluctuating levels of estrogen and progesterone disrupt the critical hormonal balance that maintains skin health. This leads to weakened barrier function and a deteriorating extracellular
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matrix. Skin becomes dry, sensitive, itchy, less protective and slower to heal. Collagen levels fall and skin thins, becoming
less elastic and flexible, meanwhile the mirror reveals unwelcome changes including increased fine lines, wrinkles and sagging. Although for some women these changes develop gradually, for others the effects of the menopause on skin health are dramatic and become a stark reminder of ageing. Because skin reflects how we see ourselves, these changes can be both physically and emotionally challenging, causing significant anxiety that affects self-esteem and quality of life.1 This study confirms DSM-Firmenich’s niacinamide active’s superhero status, revealing its multiple skin benefits and how it rebalances post-menopausal skin at the molecular level.
Introducing the niacinamide active Our vitamin B3 is an extraordinary active that single-handedly addresses many of the distressing changes that occur in menopausal skin. Its formulation includes natural-origin ingredients and is manufactured primarily using
renewable energy sources. With a carbon footprint of approximately per kilogramme, it reflects DSM-
7.4 kg CO2
Firmenich’s ongoing efforts to integrate environmental considerations into product development. The niacinamide active is designed with sensitivity to the specific needs of mature skin while aiming to reduce environmental impact. Extensive purification process during
production, which includes advanced ion- exchange techniques, ensure extremely low residual nicotinic acid content (<100 ppm), making the niacinamide active remarkably well tolerated and capable of addressing various menopausal skin concerns without causing flushing.
Restoring skin barrier function Menopausal skin’s tendency toward dryness, sensitivity, and itchiness is mainly due to impaired barrier function. Ceramides are one of the three main classes of lipid in the stratum corneum, that are critical in determining the biophysical properties and architecture
August 2025 PERSONAL CARE
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