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created incorporating up to 20% of oil, which can give excellent sensory on the skin and conditioning to the hair.
Changing conditions Another aspect that has varied through the last 25 years in the cosmetics market is how conditioning is delivered from a shampoo. By 2000, two-in-one shampoos of the type launched in the 1980s were not popular due to a perception of build-up of conditioning actives on the hair. Yet, a certain amount of conditioning
is still required from a shampoo. This may be delivered by cationic polymers such as Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride or Polyquaternium-10 and, although decreasing over the last 25 years, by silicones. Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate forms a
complex coacervate over a wider dilution range compared to SLES and therefore deposits more conditioning actives onto the hair leading to a reduction in combing force. Alternatively, lower levels of actives can
be used while maintaining the same level of conditioning. The increase in deposition of silicones can also lead to reduced dye wash out. The colour change of red dyed white yak hair was measured after 30 washes and it was found if an Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate shampoo containing Emulsil® DME-504 (Dimethicone (and) Laureth-4 (and) Laureth-23) was used, the colour change was reduced compared to if an equivalent shampoo made with SLES was used.
Changing consumer tastes Societal changes have led to consumers placing more importance on vegan diets and many consumers are now looking to expand that to their cosmetics. At the same time the globalisation of the economy and the increasing importance of the market in China means many brands wish to use cosmetic ingredients approved in China. These two demands can be conflicting.
Innospec launched a second version of Iselux, with the INCI name Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, which is not China approved and meets Cruelty Free International requirements. The solid flake grade Iselux SCMI was launched in 2019 and the liquid grade in 2023 – Iselux CBL (Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine). CAPB is included to make the product easier to handle and is likely to already be on the INCI listing of a finished formulation. Greater environmental concerns of
consumers have led to the development of new formats that require less packaging, or less water transportation. Shampoo bars have been around for many years and
900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate ■ Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate ■ ˜5% SCMI
2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2021 2022 2024
Iselux® 2009
Iselux® SFS 2011
Iselux® LQ 2010
Iselux® Ultra Mild and
Iselux® SLC 2013
Figure 4: Iselux – surfactant of choice
their popularity dips up and down. As well as convenience for the consumer, these do not require plastic packaging and the concentrated format means less water in the formulation and, therefore, a lower weight product is transported. It is possible to create compressed or extruded shampoo bars using Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionat that have excellent foaming performance. Other novel formats such as sticks, butters, pastes and jellies are also possible with the Iselux product range.
What might the future hold? At Innospec, we continue to conduct new research using Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate. The unique properties of this molecule continue to give us new consumer relevant data to share with our customers. With recent cost and environmental concerns about hot water usage increasing we have conducted rinsability studies that show Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate rinses off mannequin heads 50% faster than SLES. We also respond to requests for higher
naturality formulations. At 80% naturally derived according to ISO16128, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate may not be as high as other surfactants. Yet, as it is efficient, only low levels are needed and formulations with an overall naturality of >95% naturally derived using Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate are possible. In addition, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl
Isethionate is readily biodegradable and it is recommended to use it with the readily biodegradable chelating agent Natrlquest E30 (Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate) to ensure clear formulations are obtained. The next biggest regulatory change on
the horizon is the restriction of 1,4-dioxane. This is a by-product of ethoxylation and therefore is an impurity in SLES. There are concerns of the health impacts and persistence in the environment of this compound. Global limits have been gradually tightening and, in the future, are likely to have a huge impact on the cosmetic market that still relies on SLES for rinse-off cleansing, particularly for cost sensitive products. Luckily, Innospec has 21 years of experience in formulating SLES free systems to meet all price points. It will be interesting to see what the next 25
years brings for the cosmetics industry, for sure there will be more regulatory changes to come. Trends and customer requirements are also likely to evolve, perhaps with a sustainability focus due to the climate emergency. Innospec is well placed to help our customers with whatever changes happen.
Date launched
Iselux® SCMI 2019
Iselux® CBL 2023
PC
References 1. Mintel GNPD June 2025. Search of global products containing SLES in these categories: Eye - Cleansers; Liquid Soap; Shower Products; Bath Additives; Face - Cleansers; Shampoo. It is not possible to separate by rinse-off or leave-on
2. Society of Cosmetic Scientists Diploma in Cosmetic Science. Module 2 Unit 15 Hair Products. 2006
3. Society of Cosmetic Scientists Diploma in Cosmetic Science. Module 2 Unit 15 Hair Products. 2018
4. Foster S, Rempala P, Mueller D, Dornan L, Yarnell A, Blankenship J. Enhancing Antimicrobial Efficacy of Sodium Benzoate. SOFW Journal. 2022; 10, 8–14
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Number of new products launched globally
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