70 HAIR CARE
compared to the placebo group: skin density, elasticity, and hydration increased while wrinkle depth was reduced.11
Results like this solidify
collagen’s already robust scientific foundation as a powerful ingredient for delivering evidence-based beauty solutions globally. Looking more specifically at hair care, one
study published in the Jornal de Investigação Biomédica e Biofarmacêutica (Journal of Biomedical and Biopharmaceutical Research) – aimed to evaluate the effect of the ingestion of a bioactive collagen peptides-based supplementation in the mechanical properties of the hair – as well as in the clinical changes of skin – using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The project involved 60 healthy Brazilian women aged between 45-60 and the oral supplementation of 5 g/day of Rousselot’s collagen peptides over a period of 90 days. Researchers observed that using collagen
peptides as a dietary supplement improved hair strength by promoting an increase in the break stress of hair fibre – a parameter that evaluates the hair’s internal structure and the cortex region’s strength. This means that higher mechanical stress would be needed to break the hair fibre. Plus, considering that the ageing process
affects the hair’s mechanical resistance due to hair fibre thinning, the study also suggests that collagen supplementation could be an effective strategy for improving the condition of the capillary fibres as we age. All these relevant results underpin collagen’s potential as an all-round hair care solution, particularly in the context of age-aware women – a key demographic for nutricosmetic producers. In addition, a survey of 120 British women
ranging from 30-60 years and of diverse hair types, reported a similarly positive response to Rousselot’s collagen peptide supplements, with 67% of participants noting an improvement in overall hair quality after taking a daily 5g dose for three months.14
Science-backed solution for hair care and beyond Collagen can clearly deliver positive effects, but these studies do not fully explain why ingredients like Rousselot’s collagen peptides are able to support hair strength and vitality. To better understand the mechanism of action behind collagen’s success as a hair supplement, researchers at Rousselot recently partnered with Monasterium Laboratories - a world-leading CRO (contract research organization) in skin and hair research - in an investigation into the impact of the collagen peptides on hair loss. The research set out to demonstrate
the potential impact of collagen peptide supplements on the natural hair regeneration process. Human hair follows a four-phase cycle which moves from new growth (anagen) to regression (catagen), and finally to a two-part shedding phase (telogen). Throughout the cycle, keratinocytes (or hair
producing cells) remain active to promote the growth of new hair follicles. This typically ensures
PERSONAL CARE August 2025
Figure 1: The hair cycle ANAGEN PHASE
Growth phase
CATAGEN PHASE Regression phase
TELOGEN PHASE Shedding phase
that every hair shed is immediately replaced with a newly formed strand – thereby maintaining a healthy head of hair. If cells reach the catagen phase too early however, new follicles may not be ready to substitute shed hairs, leading to thinning and even permanent hair loss.15 During the study, Monasterium Laboratories
and Rousselot employed hair follicles from both male and female donors of different age groups. The hair follicles were treated with collagen peptides, which were digested in vitro, mimicking the real-life physiology of digestion after oral intake.
The findings were clear and highly relevant:
supplementing with Rousselot’s collagen peptides inhibited the death of hair-producing cells, as shown in Figure 2, suggesting the collagen peptides could slow down hair loss in both men and women.16 This in vitro study, along with the findings
of the clinical study published in the Jornal de Investigação Biomédica e Biofarmacêutica, seems yet further evidence of collagen’s value as a hair care solution for men and women of various ages. Rousselot’s collagen peptides’ effectiveness
in delivering these benefits could be attributed to its high bioavailability – i.e. the body’s ability to absorb the molecule – and bioactivity, which refers to the ability of a small molecule to modulate the biological function of a target cell and/or tissue. The way bioactive peptides are released
during digestion has been investigated in a study led by Rousselot in partnership with the renowned French research institute INRAE and CRO, Triskelion.17
The study used a new analytical
approach to investigate the transformation that different types of collagen peptides undergo while passing through our digestive tract and being absorbed into the bloodstream. Results confirmed and strengthened the conclusions of previous studies,18-20
This versatility was further confirmed by a new
study conducted by Rousselot in collaboration with BioTeSys and Triskelion, recently published in Frontiers in Nutrition. Here, researchers conducted a randomized, double-blind crossover trial to evaluate the absorption of bioactive di- and tri- peptides and free amino acids – key markers of collagen intake – from bovine hide, porcine skin and fish skin each with varying molecular weights, following consumption by healthy individuals. By measuring plasma concentrations of free
and peptide-bound hydroxyproline (Hyp), results showed significant levels of these metabolites.19 Importantly, the findings indicated consistent bioavailability, defined as the portion of a nutrient or bioactive compound that can be absorbed into the bloodstream,20
across different
raw material sources and molecular weights. Moreover, targeted analysis of human
serum revealed the presence of bioactive hydroxyproline-carrying dipeptides in the blood after Rousselot’s collagen peptides intake. These dipeptides (Hydroxyproline-Glycine and Proline- Hydroxyproline) significantly contributed to the total increase of Hyp, the characteristic amino acid of collagen, in the blood, meaning that the collagen peptides can be efficiently digested, absorbed and delivered to the site of action. What is interesting here, is that upon being absorbed by the body, collagen peptides trigger the synthesis of new collagen fibres, bolstering the collagen matrices found in skin, bones and joints.21-25 As a result, even if a collagen supplement targets a specific concern, such as hair beauty, consumers will in fact gain a range of health benefits, from reduced roughness of the skin to improved joint function.
proving that
Rousselot’s collagen peptides well digested, no matter the animal source. In fact, during the digestion and absorption process, the average molecular weight decreased and the products from different animal sources became more similar.
Fairytale future for hair supplement manufacturers? Hair care is one of the most exciting categories in the beauty-from-within space. With an ever- growing body of evidence pointing to its benefits as a hair beauty ingredient and the demand for hair care products on the rise, collagen has the potential to become the ingredient of choice to help brands thrive in today’s market.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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