88 MENOPAUSAL SKIN CARE
the total ceramide content in post-menopausal skin, compared to the placebo post-menopause (group 3), by 27%. Our vitamin B3 also helped to rebalance specific ceramides in post- menopausal skin (Figure 3). The following three ceramides showed
significant increases: non-hydroxy fatty acid with sphingosine (NS), non-hydroxy fatty acid with dihydrosphingosine (NdS), and α-hydroxy fatty acid with sphingosine (AS). In addition, three other ceramides that had decreased during the menopause were restored to pre-menopausal levels. These were: non- hydroxy fatty acid with phytosphingosine (NP), α-hydroxy fatty acid with dihydrosphingosine (AdS), and α-hydroxy fatty acid with phytosphingosine (AP) (Figure 4). This resulted in a ceramide composition close to the distribution seen in pre-menopausal skin. This breakthrough study shows the ability
of our vitamin B3 to harness skin’s natural enzymatic pathways to correct the amount and to balance ceramide in post-menopausal skin. This could represent a possible advantage over applying topical ceramide creams, as ceramide may not be able to penetrate into skin3
and,
if successful, topical ceramide can only add fixed amounts of specific ceramides and cannot address the underlying problem of imbalance.
Skin hydration DSM-Firmenich`s in vivo study with 5% of our vitamin B3 showed it readily penetrated post- menopausal skin, (as indicated by niacinamide and methyl niacinamide levels in skin), see Figure 4, and that the levels of niacinamide found in the skin correlates with a reduction in TEWL, see Figure 5. The same in vivo study showed that after
just 28 days of treatment with 5% of vitamin B3, skin hydration levels in post-menopausal skin increased by 23%, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) decreased by 19% when compared to the baseline. These results were far greater than those achieved by the placebo (Figure 6).
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6 7 8 9 10 TEWL Figure 6: Correlation between niacinamide in skin and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) PERSONAL CARE August 2025 11 12 13 14 15
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0 preM placebo d0 d28 postMplacebo d0 d28 postM 5% NA d0 d28
NIACINAMIDE
35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
preM placebo d0
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Restoring protection, energy and repair With age and the hormonal decline that accompanies post-menopause, the skin’s structural integrity and capacity for DNA repair progressively weaken, making it more susceptible to UV-induced stress and damage. Vitamin B3 supports the skin’s intrinsic DNA repair capacity. UV radiation can induce DNA damage and increase the likelihood of DNA mutation in skin cells, often resulting in base modifications. The depletion of cytosine, a building
base in both DNA and RNA, can be used as a biomarker of UV-induced stress. DSM- Firmenich’s in vivo research demonstrated that treatment with 5% of our vitamin B3 led to a remarkable 244% increase in cytosine levels after 28 days compared to placebo, effectively counteracting UV-induced damage and supporting DNA repair mechanisms. Furthermore, our vitamin B3 seems to have the ability of enhancing intracellular NAD2 levels and boosting ATP availability, both essential cofactors for DNA
SCATTERPLOT OF NA DETECTED VS TEWL
repair enzymes. This dual action highlights Niacinamide’s potential to support DNA repair processes and maintain cellular energy balance.
Soothing sensitive skin Our vitamin B3 also helps modulate the skin’s response to environmental stressors and helps reducing the symptoms of sensitive skin. Poor barrier function, dryness and pH imbalances leads to the disruption of the histidine metabolic pathway with consequent raised histidine levels and to histidine’s breakdown products, such as imidazole acetaldehyde and cis-urocanic acid, both markers associated with environmental stress and UV exposure. This can lead to increased sensitivity and
itchiness. The use of 5% of our vitamin B3 showed a rebalance of the histidine pathway with reduced imidazole acetaldehyde by 36% and lower cis-urocanic acid by 28%, while preserving trans-urocanic acid, a marker for photoprotection. The result is calmer, more resilient skin with increased tolerance to environmental stressors. Similarly, post-menopausal skin is less
resilient to blue light and pollution. An ex vivo study showed that 3% of our vitamin B3 significantly reduces blue light-induced ROS and oxidative protein damage after 48 hours. Another study showed that even at low concentrations, it increases the viability of keratinocytes exposed to fine particulate matter (PM) pollution.
Firmness, fine lines, wrinkles and age spots The menopause leads to a decline in skin collagen, reflected by elevated levels of degradation markers such as proline and acetyl- proline. DSM-Firmenich`s research showed increases of +80% and +100% respectively in post-menopausal skin compared to pre- menopausal. After 28 days of treatment with 5% of our
vitamin B3, levels of acetyl-proline and proline were significantly reduced by 28% and 23%
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