26 SITE VISIT


regarding the nature of polymers used in the industry, while regulations concerning polymer biodegradability are becoming increasingly strict and widespread. As a result, customers are now actively seeking polymers that are more easily biodegradable and are reviewing their formulations, which will likely drive technological changes. “Our challenge—and the reason we are enhancing our capabilities and expertise in this area—is to quickly provide our customers with new and robust data on the biodegradability of our products and to support the development of innovative, future-proof polymer structures.”


Toxicology/ecotoxicology testing Another area where Syensqo is beefing up its knowledge is in toxicology/ecotoxicology testing. Cosmetics regulations – including animal testing – are getting ever tighter. “It is very important that we develop this


expertise so we can work collaboratively with the authorities and our customers to ensure we design the right methods,” says Leroy. The Lyon lab allows Syensqo to have


real-time viability assessment; it can see by the detachment of cells if the product is toxic or not. It can assess both long term and acute exposure to skin cells; it can create a potential skin irritation profile for cosmetic products. The lab is developing some new methods


of profile testing for CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction) substances, including endocrine disruptor profiles. As with biodegradability testing, Syensqo is


PERSONAL CARE August 2025


able to have high throughput for toxicology tests; around 25 simultaneous tests. The high rate of testing


allows Syensqo to achieve its stated desire to “fast fail” products that will not cut the mustard and select the best candidates at an early stage. Speed is of the essence to give the company an edge in a highly competitive personal care marketplace. “For cosmetics, because safety is such a


critical matter for our customers, for us to drive innovation we have to come up with a good assessment very quickly – we don’t waste time on chemistries that aren’t relevant for the market.” Syensqo products that leverage its


biodegradability and toxicology expertise include the guar-based Naternal Care Clear SGI, which is said to be the first readily biodegradable, non-ecotoxic and ethically sourced conditioning polymer for hair from low to medium damage. Another, newer product is Naternal Care


XTRA, a biodegradable and boron-free responsible polymer for highly damaged hair made from fenugreek. Both products are suitable for shampoo, hair conditioner and serum applications.


Expanding horizons Twenty-five years ago, says Leroy, the company that became Syensqo was a major player in hair care, making around 80% of the ingredients for shampoo. Yet for skin care it was not really in the game.


That is changing. One area where Syensqo is particularly proud of is ceramides. Last year, it completed the acquisition of JinYoung Bio, a speciality cosmetic ingredients supplier based in South Korea. The deal extended Syensqo’s product


portfolio into biomimetic ceramides for skin care and hair care applications, as well as a range of biobased functional ingredients used in skin care and colour cosmetic applications. Following the acquisition of JinYoung


Bio, Syensqo launched Cerafy, a range of biomimetic natural ceramides for skin care and hair care applications made from non-GMO sources. Syensqo employs an innovative manufacturing process to create the Cerafy products.


This begins with the ceramide precursor


(phytosphingosine) extraction through yeast fermentation, followed by acylation with fatty acid. This method ensures that Cerafy solutions are identical to their naturally occurring counterparts, present in the stratum corneum, which, in turn, offers bioaffinity and efficacy. Cerafy Pure NPo, the first product in the


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