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BEAUTY IN ASIA: OVERVIEW International brands on the rise again in Asia


Popularity of makeup and fragrances continues to grow in Asia as home-grown and international brands adapt scents, colours, formulas and textures to meet the needs of younger consumers. Charlotte Turner finds out how the DF&TR industry is responding to their evolving tastes.


G


rowth in perfume & cosmetics


far exceeded all other


categories in the global travel retail industry in recent years, posting a growth of +19.3% to $25.6m in 2017 (the last full year for which data is available). Wines & spirits is the category’s closest competitor, with less than half the sales of P&C. Beauty sales have always been


particularly buoyant in Asia Pacific, but it has been skincare that has driven growth in the past, with consumers in the region previously regarding makeup and fragrances as relatively unimportant in their daily beauty regimes. However, there has definitely been


some movement in market share in favour of colour cosmetics and fragrances as the spending power of millennials has grown stronger. What has also emerged as a trend in Asia over the last five years or so has been the growing popularity of beauty appliances (see p115 for more information), as TRBusiness has reported extensively. ReFa, Foreo, Clarisonic and Dr. Arrivo represent just a small fraction of the brands flooding the market with new devices to meet demand. Of course, international beauty


giants such as L’Oréal, Estée Lauder Companies and Coty (offering many ‘heritage’ or high-end brands from Europe and the US), have long been established in Asia and are constantly battling with each other for supremacy. All of them have invested considerable resources in creating products catering to the demands of Asian customers, targeting individual nationalities with particular skincare concerns & regimens, with new ‘active ingredients’ and ‘scientifically proven formulas’. In addition, there have never been more foundation shades available for Asian (and black) skin tones. While there are rarely fragrances


MAY 2019 sales has


launched for individual Asian markets, fruity, floral, light and fresh scents have long been considered more popular among customers from this part of the world. New variants of signature scents


– specifically targeting Asian consumers – are announced almost weekly by the beauty industry and launches have been just as prolific in duty free & travel retail. The Burberry Her fragrance is a good example of a recent global launch from Coty, which has been created specifically to appeal to an Asian audience. Markus Stauss, Coty VP Global Marketing Travel Retail tells TRBusiness that when Coty gave its travel retail partners a preview of the fragrance in 2018, the reaction was very positive, especially from its partners in Asia. Its more recent Tiffany & Co.


Sheer fragrance could also be successful in this part of the world. The scent, which is already available in travel retail across Asia Pacific, is described by Coty as a ‘bright and sparkling interpretation of the signature fragrance’.


Trends: keeping pace As new products and brands continue to multiply – some from relatively humble beginnings that are rocketing to fame through the power


The world’s second biggest DF&TR operator, Lotte Duty Free, believes itself to be somewhat of a pioneer (in travel retail terms) when it comes to beauty specifically and has challenged its supplier partners to raise the bar in duty free.


TRBusiness


of social media and tie-ups with KOLs – retailers often struggle to keep up with the latest trends. The world’s second biggest DF&TR operator, Lotte Duty Free, believes itself to be somewhat of a pioneer (in travel retail terms) when it comes to beauty specifically, and has challenged its supplier partners to raise the bar in duty free. In terms of recent developments,


Lotte is planning to renovate and remodel its Sogong-dong store’s


Above: There have never been more shades available in colour cosmetics.


Beauty appliances are growing in popularity. TRBUSINESS 107


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