70 TEXTURES
oils in the convenient powder format due to its high absorption properties whilst still resulting in a very soft skin-feel during and after application. Its simplistic formulation allows it to be easily adapted to meet the consumers’ needs with the addition of colour, fragrances or actives as desired.
Wellbeing Pearls.
maize starch. It brings a unique texture to formulations combined with a cushioned skin-feel during application. This Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate is used in combination with a naturally derived emulsifier, which is an optimised blend of Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol and Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, developed to give greater flexibility within the achievable range of viscosity. In addition, the emulsifier has an affinity to the skin’s amino acid structure which results in a smooth, silky skin-feel during application. A lightweight emollient is essential for
the ease of application of such textures as it allows the formulation to spread quickly on the skin yet with a smooth and cosy after- feel. A combination of Tridecene and Pentadecane is used as it offers a natural alternative to light, volatile cosmetic emollients to create airy textures and cushy sensory impressions. It also allows the sensorial experience or playtime to be modified whilst maintaining a white appealing cream without the skin becoming too glossy.
Take Control Powdered Cream An evolution from the standard oil-in-water emulsion is seen with our Take Control Powdered Cream (Formulation 2). It removes the need for water to be used in the formulation which as we know is normally an essential component for any emulsion, irrespective of type, O/W, W/O or W/SI. This gives the flexibility to the consumer to decide what they would like to use, how and when; be it on the go, at home, daytime or night-time application. Depending on whether they desire a lotion for daytime use or a more viscous cream for night-time, we can simply change the ratio of the formulation combined with water, to dilute the formulation at a ratio of 1:4 for a
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Formulation 3: Wellbeing Pearls. Phase
Ingredients/INCI A Aqua B Glycerin
B Gellan Gum B Gellan Gum
C Sodium Benzoate D Oryza Sativa Starch E Distarch Phosphate F
Lactic Acid, Aqua
G Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate
C10-18 Triglycerides Stearyl Alcohol Squalane
Oxidized Corn Oil Isocetyl Stearate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Ethyl Oleate
H Hydrated Silica I
Parfum J
Retinol, Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, Tricaprylin
Sorbitan Caprylate, Benzyl Alcohol
%
63.80 5.00 0.40 0.25 0.45 2.00 1.00 0.10
4.00 4.00
2.00 2.00 2.00 4.00 3.00 2.00 2.00
1.00 0.50 0.50
cream or 1:6 for a lotion. From Mintel’s Personalisation in Beauty report (2019), we learn that 48% of UK adults are interested in beauty products that offer a degree of personalisation with 23% of them expressing interest in using DIY kits. Products which are flexible in use are key to this trend. The powder aspect of the formulation is centred on the use of rice starch to turn the
Wellbeing Pearls Innovation can also be achieved by looking at which textures can be created with specific raw materials. Due to various legislation and market movements away from different groups of synthetic raw materials, natural hydrocolloids and gums are being used as alternatives. The flexibility of this group of thickeners and rheology modifiers is being investigated in much more depth than ever before. The existing and well-studied range of textures and synergies is now opening up to meet the needs for natural possibilities in the personal care sector. From raw materials derived from the sea such as carrageenans, to those derived from the seeds of the carob tree; so many formulation options are possible from nature. The increased use of naturally derived
hydrocolloids, such as gellan gum, are allowing a new plethora of textures to be created. Gellan gum is produced by bacteria via fermentation and has two types, high acyl and low acyl, which result in vastly different textures, with application possibilities in both the food and personal care industry. Wellbeing Pearls (Formulation 3) are made of an ultra-soft and smooth, solid cream which combines the two forms of gellan gum to create a unique texture which will surprise you with its light texture and powdery finish. Its flexible format allows the consumer to hydrate whenever and wherever they want. Simply take one or two pearls which melt quickly in the hand to create a rich lotion and then they can be applied where needed. The combination of Gellan Gum, Distarch Phosphate, with a range of skin-friendly oils and esters, makes moisturising the skin a pleasure, as well as being fun.
Citrus In-Shower Body Moisturising Bar Another approach to alternative ways to moisturise the skin comes from the trend for solid format products such as those for hair cleansing, yet these need not to be limited just for cleansing. Azelis has developed the Citrus In-Shower Body Moisturising Bar which is a moisturiser that can be used to cleanse and moisturise the skin while in the shower or bath. The formulation is so mild with skin-friendly glutamates that it can be left on the skin. High in natural content ingredients, it includes Pequi oil and algae extract for their well-known soothing and restorative attributes. The formulation also incorporates natural rice bran wax to gently
November 2020
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