SILICONES 67
Beyond the science Historically, water-in-silicone emulsions have been a challenge to manufacture at scale. Since silicones are highly hydrophobic, producing stable emulsions in a factory requires diligence during the mixing process, and can cause variations in viscosity and stability if not managed carefully. If not treated with the appropriate attention, mixing speed levels and equipment, formulators often risk an uneven particle size distribution of the emulsion when producing the product at scale, with the emulsion ‘inverting’. As a result, this has led to common opinions around W/Si emulsion use, with many saying the systems are ‘too difficult to formulate’ and leading to some avoiding W/Si or W/O emulsions completely. With the Cornelius solution, there are two
potential manufacturing routes available: traditional slow water addition at low RPM, following by a faster RPM emulsification as per more classical methods, or the newly possible fast homogenisation (70-80% internal water phase) that PEG-7 Dimethicone Ether delivers. Opting for either route will result in the same glossy white emulsion, without the worry of instability or need for delicate handling. At Cornelius, we believe in delivering the
difference to our customers. That is why our new W/Si emulsifier can be used in different ways to offer additional benefits. For example, choosing to tailor the molecular weight of the silicone in the external phase by blending viscosities and silicone structures helps to optimise skin-feel and texture, as well as support the stability with more challenging additives. Alternatively, opting for a co- emulsifier can also give the long-term stability a boost if there are challenging additives or conditions. Using polyglyceryl esters, polyricinoleate derivates and PEG-10 Dimethicone at small concentrations (between 0.5-1%) can aid this process. Finally, formulators can optimise the polarity and
freeze point of the internal water phase by using glycols and salts – including NaCI or MgSO4 – to help stabilisation if required in those more challenging systems. Alongside benefit-driven alternatives,
Cornelius also believes in delivering versatility. The unique molecular structure of PEG-7 Dimethicone Ether enables manufacturers to create multiple formulations at scale. To explore the range of applications available for our customers, we have developed example formulations including a fresh-feeling foundation, a facial sunscreen with organic and in-organic UV absorbers and a gel créme moisturiser with essential oils. This means our customers can deliver premium, luxury skin- feel applications at a much lower cost right now to meet the demands of consumers in the ‘new normal’ and improve the bottom line for the business.
Silicones and sustainability For consumers looking to cut down on plastic usage and cosmetics waste from skin care routines, natural beauty tends to come to the fore. While silicones are often perceived as a material that is damaging to the environment, most of these theories are derived from ‘cyclic’ silicones that bio- accumulate and are accordingly regulated in use. At Cornelius, we have focused on linear silicones in our developments, which have a wide variety of sustainability and environmental benefits. This makes PEG-7 Dimethicone Ether perfect for manufacturers and brands looking to increase their commitment to sustainability and enhance trust amongst their consumers, while delivering products that perform as expected. As an example of silicones providing
sustainable solutions, and according to the industry body, Silicones Europe, for every metric tonne of carbon dioxide that is produced when making silicon metal, we receive approximately nine metric tonnes of
carbon dioxide savings in return.8 These
savings are visible in the form of photo- voltaic coatings on solar panels to ensure they are kept clean and at their most efficient, lubricants in wind turbines, alongside aerodynamic coatings in automotive and aerospace applications. While their use in cosmetics ingredients is small in comparison to the cited applications, PEG-7 Dimethicone Ether also plays its part in delivering benefits in sustainability through energy saving in the at scale production process.
The future of W/Si emulsions With the myriad of benefits that water-in- silicone emulsions represent, we are ready to go a step further at Cornelius. In fact, we are already developing the next generation of W/Si emulsions for our customers. We foresee future iterations offering further improved sustainability credentials. This change in thinking, another paradigm shift in cosmetic science and formulation techniques, quintessentially means there is no cap or limit for formulators. For retailers, brands and their supply
chains, the new normal should inspire creativity and innovations in beauty and personal care production solutions beyond those that have already been established. With the potential reopening of retail outlets, hairdressers, nail bars and salons in the UK, the industry is ready to address the needs of consumers now delivering exciting and innovative product design, with production efficiencies and the environment being considered in the package! But there is also plenty of opportunity to expand – all it takes is an open-mind and a fresh outlook for the new normal.
PC
References 1 2019. The Value Of Beauty. [online] Available
at: <
https://britishbeautycouncil.com/wp content/uploads/2020/05/Value_of_beauty_FI NAL.pdf> [Accessed 23 June 2020].
2 Gerstell E, Marchessou S, Schmidt J. 2020. How COVID-19 Is Changing The World Of Beauty. [online]
3 Gerstell E, Marchessou S, Schmidt J. 2020. How COVID-19 Is Changing The World Of Beauty. [online]
4 Hennigan C. 2020. COVID-19 Increases Demand For Safe BPC Products. [online] Mintel.
5 Lim A. 2020. Hands-Free Beauty In India:COVID-19 Worries May Spur Demand ForBeauty Products With Contactless Applications.
cosmeticsdesign-asia.com.
6
Benefitcosmetics.com. 2020. Eyebrow Makeup For Perfect Eyebrows. [online]
7 Tech In Demand: COVID-19 Pushing Benefit Cosmetics To Adopt More AR Beauty Tools.
8
Silicones.eu. 2019. Silicon-Chemistry Carbon Balance: An Assessment Of Greenhouse Gas
November 2020 PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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