SILICONES 65


Next generation thinking for the ‘new normal’


n Liam Smith - Cornelius Group, UK


The beauty industry is at the heart of the British economy. In 2018, UK consumers invested £27.2 billion in beauty products and services. According to the British Beauty Council in its 2019 Value of Beauty Report, £10.4 billion was spent on personal care and maintenance, while £8.7 billion was dedicated to personal enhancement products and a further £8 billion in beauty services.1


On a global scale, the


beauty industry generates $500 billion in sales per year2


and accounts for millions of jobs,


both directly and indirectly. So, when COVID- 19 (coronavirus) was declared a global pandemic by the World Health Organisation (‘WHO’) in March, the impact to the economy was huge. Prior to this unprecedented event, between


personalised experiences and try-before-you buy products, in-store shopping accounted for up to 85% of beauty product purchases. But with a worldwide lockdown in place, approximately 30% of the market closed down.3


Brands and their retailers reduced


ranges to ensure they could supply via more complex online retail channels and consumers ceased buying as they were now not going out. Fashion and beauty were simply going to have to take a back seat for a while, as consumers were more worried about their health and wellbeing than how they looked. Collateral damage was felt across the


board – premium beauty outlets, manufacturers and formulators were furloughing staff in new product development, while simultaneously transitioning manufacturing lines to produce handwash, soaps and sanitisers. As demand for skin care products continued to soar, the personal care sector was under pressure to not only meet those volumes but ensure the efficacy and quality of formulations were also unaffected.


A paradigm shift in thinking Thankfully, the beauty industry has shown remarkable resilience during the pandemic. If beauty products and services can embolden consumer confidence, then the industry cannot shy away from a new wave of thinking. So, in the face of the ‘new normal’, brands have changed strategic course part way through 2020 to combat these challenges head on.


November 2020 In terms of new trends emerging or now


seeing significant adoption, hands-free or ‘touchless’ applications are likely to climb in popularity with consumers, according to research from Mintel.4


While sprays, mists,


sticks and roll-ons have been readily available in North America, Europe and parts of Asia, only since the onset of COVID-19 have brands in the large Indian market started to create touchless applications. When a local Indian beauty brand developed a facial cleanser with a built-in brush head, it gathered significant interest from consumers. In addition, facial rollers made from semi- precious stones such as jade and quartz are also increasing in popularity in the luxury Indian beauty market.5 Elsewhere, beauty technology is growing


in demand. LMVH-owned Benefit Cosmetics is investigating Augmented Reality (AR) technology to support the move to the ‘new normal’ - the term coined to describe the post-COVID period where health and safety are paramount in consumer concerns. While the idea of a ‘Brow Try-On Experience’6


is not


new for the company, as it has been exploring different ‘test-and-try’ avenues for consumers since 2016, the technology behind the innovation certainly is. Using a combination of digital and AR technology, consumers can discover which eyebrow shape best suits them and which products are ideal for their desired shape. According to Benefit, and since the outbreak, the Brow Try-On Experience has experienced a 43% surge in interest from consumers.7


Apparently, this is due to a PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


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