42 SKIN CARE


angiogeneisis, immune response, anti- oxidant capacity and wound healing alongside an increase in hair loss. Loss of collagen in the skin can be dramatic with it being widely reported that skin collagen levels can decrease by up to 30 percent in the first 5 years postmenopause. The effects on skin manifest themselves as a decrease in skin hydration (dry, flaky skin), increased fragility, impaired barrier recovery, an increase in fine lines and wrinkling, reduction in elasticity and firmness and a feeling of skin discomfort.5 One of the important lifestyle impacts


caused by these changes is the reduction of the tactile sensory properties of fingers, especially given our increasingly interactive environment. A recent paper found that elderly female subjects found it much more difficult to differentiate between different surface textures than younger subjects. Though this was primarily driven by neurological properties of the skin it was demonstrated that the application of a product which improved the skin’s hydration significantly reduced the differences between the two groups and has the ability to improve the quality of life in the elderly.6 Many of the effects of oestrogen on skin


have been determined by studying the effects of HRT on postmenopausal subjects versus subjects who have not taken HRT. Research has shown an increase in skin epidermal thickness following 6 months of oral HRT treatment whilst topical HRT treatment has indicated a rise in keratinocyte proliferation and an improvement in epidermal thickness after only two weeks. Other studies have shown that both oral and topical oestrogen therapy can boost the collagen content of skin and decrease topological features such as fine lines and wrinkles.


How the personal care industry is responding The increased candour around the menopause has seen an increase of brand and product launches into the marketplace, all offering targeted solutions to help women at all three stages of menopause. There is definitely a demand for this, for example, a recent American Association of Retired Persons (AARP) study of nearly 2,000 adults found that 70% of women aged 40+ want to see more perimenopausal and menopausal beauty and personal grooming products and that women over fifty are eager to buy from brands which represent them.7


For the


personal care industry we see products focused on the above skin care needs during this time with claims including collagen boosting, intense moisturising, sebum control and barrier repair. The aforementioned Meg Mathews launched


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


her eponymous range in 2017 alongside the website megsmenopause.com, claiming to be the first full menopausal range dedicated to intimate skin care with the aim of easing the transition and making the process comfortable for every woman. The website aims to educate the public about the menopause offering a wealth of knowledge and anecdotal truths about the product range. The range itself has a natural focus, is Vegan approved and is split into three key areas – Intimate Care, Nutrition and Skin Care. The Intimate Care section comprises a wash, a moisturiser and lubricants whilst the Nutrition section features a supplement to be taken daily containing calcium, vitamin C and B vitamins. The Skincare section is headed up by a SWALK Serum containing hyaluronic acid to lock in moisture and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Alongside this is a Cooling Facial Spray to instantly cool, refresh and hydrate skin, aimed at calming hot, flushed skin.8 ‘Pause’ are a brand based around Well-


Aging and focused in particular on products which make menopause better, declaring itself “A movement which affirms that beauty gets better with age”. The brands focus is to not see beauty as a peak and then being past your best, but instead to view it as something that evolves through your life. Their website is very community- based with good engagement with members sharing their own stories and trying to help and advise each other. The product range includes SKUs focused on specific areas such as eyes and pores alongside an anti-wrinkle facial serum, a


four in one micellar cleanser and a hot flash cooling mist to instantly cool and calm. The hero product in the range is the “Collagen Boosting Moisturizer” which contains glycolic acid to boost collagen and elastin production. There is also a Pause Well- ageing Fascia Stimulating Tool, a device which massages the facial skin to stimulate fibroblasts and therefore increase collagen production, improving skin surface topography.9 Phytomone is a brand created by Jane


Atherton author of the book “The Menopause Secret”. The key product for the brand is Pause Hydra Crème, a four in one product which can be used as a moisturiser, serum, eye cream and neck cream. The interesting aspect of the product is that it claims to contain encapsulated phytoestrogens which bind to oestrogen receptors in the face mimicking the activity of oestrogen and boosting collagen production.10 As a final example the Vichy


Dermocosmetics skincare brand owned by L’Oréal have a sub-range named Neovadiol which has been specifically designed to target menopausal skin.11


The range


comprises eight products focussed on the face and the end result is that skin feels intensely hydrated and complexion looks even and radiant; very much healthy skin and not anti-ageing. There are articles from menopause experts on the website (with over 15 years of research on the menopause) and also some editorials from celebrities explaining their menopause experience. The advice section is split into categories covering skin and beauty,


November 2020


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