TEXTURES 69
Innovative textures to inspire consumers
n Claire Summers – Azelis, UK
For the Azelis Personal Care lab teams, there are so many reasons for creativity to be unleashed, such as the desire to make formulations which are more sustainable throughout the whole life cycle of the product. In today’s personal care market, we also see a focus shift from conception of the new product development, to the selection and combination of raw materials, with full transparency of the chosen ingredients for critical consumers. Consumers are looking for products to ‘tick more boxes’, from cleaner INCI labelling, to novel but relevant product formats, as well
Formulation 1: Bounce Back Cream. Phase
A Butylene Glycol
Glycerin, Aqua, Punica Granatum Extract Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Sodium Citrate Aqua, C.I. 19140 Aqua, C.I. 17200 Aqua
B
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Copernicia Cerifera Wax Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Prunus Persica Kernel Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Sorbitan Caprylate, Benzyl Alcohol Tapioca Starch
Water, Pentylene Glycol, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract
C Tridecane, Pentadecane Parfum
Formulation 2: Take Control Powdered Cream. Phase
A Glycerin Peg-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides B Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
C Oryza Sativa Starch D Octyldodecyl Myristate
November 2020
as being able to answer the need for flexibility in the way products can be used. Our formulators are very much inspired by the experimental nature of the personal care landscape and the constant need for evolution from today’s consumers. As formulators, we want to be ahead of trends and anticipate the need of our customers before they even initiate a request. In this article, we present several Azelis
formulations with surprising and innovative textures, as inspired by Mintel’s research on “The rise of the Jelly textures”. According to this study, 26% of UK consumers say that
Ingredients/INCI %
4.00 1.50 3.00 0.10 q.s. q.s.
72.30 2.00 4.50 2.10 2.00 2.00 2.00 1.00 3.00 0.50
the key influencer for product selection is texture and feel. 69% of Italians aged from 16-24 want products which are fun to use. If a consumer enjoys the experience which comes with a product, they are more likely to buy it again. The Azelis Personal Care team has developed unique and natural formulations which spark the consumer’s interest for innovative textures on top of answering their need for products which tick the right boxes. Emulsions are the corner stone of the
cosmetic industry and are used for so many personal care categories to achieve the required formulation, but perhaps it is time for a change to address the needs of today’s consumer and look for alternatives to emulsions? Starches are one of the raw material
groups which meet the needs of today’s formulators for a variety of formulation benefits because of their versatility, naturality, sustainability as well as historic understanding and appreciation by consumers. The knowledge on the range of applications for starches and their benefits for formulations are still increasing and evolving as research on starches continues by both the manufacturers and formulators. Starches can be used for multiple reasons: from rheology modification, sensorial and gloss modification to bubble enhancement in shower gels to only name a few.
Ingredients/INCI %
12.00 10.00 4.00
64.00 10.00
Bounce Back Cream The first formulation with a surprising texture to focus on in this article is the Bounce Back Cream (Formulation 1) which has been developed to have an innovative bouncy texture which moulds itself after application like a second skin, for an instant feeling of wellbeing. It nurtures and comforts skin from top to toe with a rich and creamy formula that absorbs quickly into the skin, to soften and moisturise. The perfect combination of natural ingredients results in a luxurious texture which turns it into a sensorial experience. The formulation is a balance of
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate which is a cold-water soluble starch based on a waxy
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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