38 SUN CARE
Sun care film-formers: functional formulation
n Tony O’Lenick - Nascent Technologies Corporation, US
Today’s formulator is faced with the development of products that not only need to provide specific consumer attributes but many times impose requirements of ‘free from’ claims. It is not unusual to have be more creative to achieve the ‘free from claims’. There are two recommended methods to improve the efficiency of formulation depending on the specific goals of the reformulation.
Minimally disruptive technology The concept of minimally disruptive formulation1-4
was introduced in 2015 and
much has been written about using it. This approach depends upon the ability of personal care formulators to provide products that have consumer perceptible differences that meet a market need. Since product aesthetics are a key attribute of personal care products, the ability to alter product aesthetics to provide a different consumer perception with minimal change to the formulation is a very cost-effective way to develop new products. The concept was to add a particular polymeric surface active agent (including silicones, polyester or other polymers), to an existing formulation to effect a consumer perceptible change in the formulation. The fact is that polymeric surface actives,
properly chosen at a concentration of 5% or less, will provide to the formulation a lowering of surface tension, an alteration of feel, an altering of cushion and play time, a change in gloss, and a perception to a customer the product is different from the formulation to which the additive has not been made. This makes surface active polymers quite valuable at low concentrations in formulation to make ‘new products’. I have often said that if a personal care product is compared to a gourmet meal, polymeric surfactant additives will be the spice, not the meat or potatoes1
formulators in a very efficient way by modifying well known formulations to provide new products with different aesthetics. Much of the original work was done
using silicone polymers but has been expanded to other surface active polymers.
Functional formulation The concept of Functional Formulating was introduced in a webinar in 2020.5
This . This means that small amounts of
surface active polymer added to great formulas will bring out desired properties to a consumer, that will amaze and delight. This approach will allow the formulator to make small but major modifications to
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
approach is different from Minimally Disruptive Formulation in that it is not adding a new surface active polymer to an existing formulation to observe differences in the formulation, it is replacing existing surface active polymers in the formulation with other polymers that have the same function. This approach stresses the function a polymer performs in a formulation rather than the chemistry that was used to make the polymer. If a polymer is present in a formulation as a rheological modifier, the replacement will be chosen that is also a wetting agent, same for foaming agents, or emulsifiers. This approach acknowledges that there are a variety of surface active polymers that provide the same function in a formulation
but may or may not share the same chemistries. For example a PEG ester may be either an emulsifier or detergent depending upon structure, so may a silicone quat function in many different functions, depending upon structure. The differences will only become apparent in formulation. Both Minimally Disruptive Formulation
(MDF) and Functional Formulation (FF) offer the formulator a focused approach to formulation with two different methods of achieving efficient use of time and maintaining the use of a platform formulation subjected to two different types of formulation needs.
Functional formulation applied to sunscreen formulations One major aspect of formulation is selection of raw materials. Proper selection not only reflects on the functionality and aesthetics of the product, and ultimately consumer acceptability, but the concept of Product Stewardship is becoming a critical step in new product development process. Product stewardship is the safe and effective management of chemicals throughout their lifecycle. It is not only
November 2020
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