50 ANTI-POLLUTION
of pollutants on the skin as well as potential methods of defense. Three different approaches were used to test typical components of skin care formulations for their effects on adhesion and removability of particles, penetration and finally cleansing performance, which revealed significant differences between the applied substances. The best performing ingredients for each aspect were then incorporated in new formulations that demonstrate a clear anti- pollution effect. When developing these formulations, not only the antipollution effects were assessed but also further aspects that constitute a well-performing skin care product, such as its sensory properties or its ability to offer valued benefits like moisturisation or skin recovery after impairment. As a result, the new systematic approach enables down-the- line multidimensional skin protection against particulate matter.
PC
References 1. World Health Organization. Air Pollution.
Available from:
https://www.who.int/health- topics/air-pollution#tab=tab_1 [Accessed May 15, 2020].
2. Krutmann J, Moyal D, Liu W, Kandahari S, Lee GS, Nopadon N, Xiang LF, Seité S. Pollution and acne: is there a link? Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol. 2017; 10:199-204.
3. Ding A, Yang Y, Zhao Z. et al. Indoor PM2.5 exposure affects skin aging manifestation in a Chinese population. Sci. Rep. 2017; 7:15329.
4. Vierkötter A, Schikowski T, Ranft U, Sugiri D, Matsui M, Krämer U, Krutmann J. Airborne Particle Exposure and Extrinsic Skin Aging. J Invest Dermatol. 2010; 130(12):2719-26
5. Pan TL, Wang PW, Aljuffali IA, Huang CT, Lee CW, Fang JY. The Impact of Urban Particulate Pollution on Skin Barrier Function and the Subsequent Drug Absorption. J Dermatol Sci. 2015; 78:51-60
6. SC-DE-17-017-48
https://tinyurl.com/y6pwxrsz 7. SC-DE-18-117-2
https://tinyurl.com/yxcb9ygn 8. SC-DE-17-017-54
https://tinyurl.com/y4zn74a6 9. Sinkó B, Garrigues TM, Balogh GT, Nagy ZK, Tsinman O, Avdeef A, Takács-Novák. Skin- PAMPA: a new method for fast prediction of skin penetration. Eur J Pharm Sci. 2012; 45(5):698-707
10. SC-DE-19-087-11
https://tinyurl.com/y6lxx9me
11.Peterson G, Rapaka S, Koski N, Kearney M, Ortblad K, Tadlock L. A robust sebum oil and particulate pollution model for assessing cleansing efficacy of human skin. Int. J. of Cosm. Sci. 2017; 39: 351-354.
12. SC-DE-19-077-13
https://tinyurl.com/y6jenvlm
Note: The trademarks symbolized with a ® or ™ are either property of or licensed to BASF group and registered and/or applied for registration in relevant countries. Other product names and trademarks mentioned may belong to third parties.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE leave-on rinse-off
Figure 8: Visual perception of the cleansing performance of formulation SC-DE-19-077-13 compared to benchmark product.
Formulation 1: Naturecare Anti-Pollution Matrix (SC-DE-18-117-2) Phase Ingredients A Water, demin. Edeta B Powder Rheocare® Emulgade® Cetiol®
INCI Name Aqua
XGN
B C D
PL 68/50 Ultimate
Euxyl PE 90101 Sensiva SC 501 PatcH2
0®
Covi-ox® Perfume*
E Properties:
pH value (23°C): 6.5 Viscosity: (Brookfield; RVF; spindle TE, Helipath, 4 rpm; 23°C): 37500 Suppliers: 1 Schülke
*Perfume: "Always the Sun" by Symrise
Formulation 2: Soothing Cleansing Transformer (SC-DE-19-077-13) Phase Ingredients A
INCI Name
Dehymuls® Eutanol® Cetiol® Cetiol®
Myritol® Copherol® PGPH G
Ultimate Sensoft
331 F 1300 C
Ethanol 96% Phytosoothe® Perfume
LS 9766
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate Octyldodecanol
Undecane, Tridecane Propylheptyl Caprylate
Cocoglycerides Tocopherol Alcohol
Properties: Viscosity: (Brookfield; RVT; spindle 5, 50 rpm; 23°C): <400 mPas Appearance: clear, yellowish oil
November 2020 A00297 T 90 EU C
Tetrasodium EDTA Xanthan Gum
Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol Undecane, Tridecane
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Ethylhexylglycerin
Aqua, Glycerin, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Trehalose, Urea, Serine, Pentylene Glycol, Algin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pullulan, Disodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate
Tocopherol Parfum
Citric Acid (10% solution) Citric Acid
% w/w 86.92 0.20 2.00 1.00 2.50 1.10 0.40 5.00
0.50 0.20 0.18
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
% w/w 7.50
20.00 10.00 48.30
10.00 0.50 1.50
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols, Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 Parfum
0.20
Cleansing efficacy [%] worse
better
SC-DE-19-077-13
Benchmark
Control
SC-DE-19-077-13
Benchmark
Control
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