MEN’S GROOMING 55


Natural hair styling gel with xanthan gum


n Laura Riemensperger, Dr. Gregor Backert – Jungbunzlauer, Germany


Hair can never look good if it is not styled well. But it is not enough to create a great style – you have to keep it looking good. Styling gels therefore play a huge role in personal hair care and have become a mainstay of the hair care market. While styling gels are typically


designed specifically for use by either men or women, the principal behind the formulation is the same for both product types. Conventional styling gel


formulations contain several synthetic polymers. These are needed to thicken the gel, for film formation and to fixate the hair. The amount of polymer used and its final composition depend on the intended strength of the product. However, synthetic polymers in formulations that claim to be natural are strictly prohibited. Instead, manufacturers rely on the use of biopolymers to achieve the intended properties in hair styling gel. Nearly all natural styling products use xanthan gum as their thickening and film-forming ingredient. In a limited number of cases, xanthan gum may be used in combination with other gums, such as carrageenan or guar gum.1,2 Looking at consumer trends, there is a


growing demand for more sustainable and environmentally friendly ingredients to be included in styling gel products for everyday use. However, hardly any of the synthetic polymers currently used are biodegradable; instead, they accumulate in the environment once the hair gel is rinsed off and flushed down the drain,3


a fact that is becoming


increasingly important for aware consumers. In addition to this consumer-driven move


towards more natural formulations, the regulatory environment is getting stricter, too. Restrictions on intentionally added microplastic particles are now in force in a number of countries and the European Chemical Agency is preparing to add microplastics to an extension of the REACH regulation. Even though microplastic particle definitions can vary significantly, consumer perceptions are formed based on the INCI


November 2020


Natural vs. synthetic polymer formulations: a comparison Formulation with synthetic polymers Hair gels with synthetic thickening and fixative polymers were prepared to act as representative standard formulations. In addition to the synthetic polymers, the hair gel contained glycerine as a moisturiser and sodium hydroxide for pH adjustment. It was formulated without any additional active substances to exclude any unwanted impacts on physical characteristics. The target viscosity range was


determined after analysing one natural and five conventional market products. The concentrations of polymers were adjusted until the


viscosity and rheological behaviour of the


list and not on the actual physical state of polymers.3


solute synthetic polymers are all deemed undesirable. Jungbunzlauer’s xanthan gum is


manufactured by fermentation, using carbohydrates from renewable sources to feed the fermentation process. It is fully biodegradable and suitable for natural cosmetics, which allows us to provide COSMOS raw material approval for our personal and oral care grades. As a hydrocolloid with pseudoplastic properties, it is highly compatible with other cosmetic ingredients and allows excellent thickening and film forming in hair styling gel formulations. The Jungbunzlauer product range even includes highest-clarity xanthan gum from vegan production. The following findings substantiate the


suitability of xanthan gum to substitute common synthetic thickeners and film- formers while offering excellent performance in terms of appearance and application.


Therefore solid, semi-solid and


test formulations matched the target range. The primary focus of the experiment was to find a substitute for the fixative polymers Acrylates Crosspolymer-3 and VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer. To facilitate comparison of the results from the two formulations, the same thickening polymer Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer was used in each synthetic formulation. Despite the pared-down composition,


formulating with the synthetic polymers was quite challenging and time- consuming. The thickening polymer was sprinkled into water, where it absorbed water until it was fully hydrated. The batch was then gently stirred to obtain a homogeneous product. At this point the viscosity was very low and the product turbid. Once the pH was neutralised, viscosity increased and the product became clearer. Because synthetic thickening polymers


are generally very pH sensitive, the choice of preservatives is restricted. Furthermore, a neutral pH is less suitable for skin and hair than slightly acidic products. Therefore, the pH was adjusted to 7.3 - 7.5 before adding the fixative polymers and finalising the formulation.


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80