20 FORMULATION SUMMIT


Exchanging sustainable concepts at virtual summit


n Ollie Baker – in-cosmetics, UK Richard Scott – Editor, Personal Care


In May 2019, the UK became the first national government to declare a climate emergency. By November, the European Parliament had done the same. With worldwide coverage of flash-flooding, bush fires and record-breaking temperatures, climate change has remained one of the most hotly debated topics, and one that that has garnered the attention of consumers, brand owners and scientists alike. Helping cosmetic manufacturers and


suppliers understand how they can contribute to a more sustainable future, the in-cosmetics Formulation Summit will run from 17-19 November 2020 to offer up-to- date intelligence into the biggest trends influencing the beauty industry. Returning in a new virtual format, this


year’s online summit will delve into the various aspects of “good” science that can enable formulators to create products that are fantastic for both consumers and the planet, well beyond stereotyped concepts such as ‘sustainable’, ‘natural’ and ‘organic’. Under the broader topic of the


environment and climate change, the Formulation Summit will cover six main themes including sustainability, formulation techniques, the chemistry of formulation and product design, reducing environmental footprint, microalgae and waste reduction, plus packaging and processing. New to this year’s summit, visitors can


select from ten different breakout roundtables, covering topics such as green chemistry innovations, deceptive advertising of natural cosmetics, the safety of natural ingredients, and how to destigmatise certain ingredients that are deemed ‘harmful’ in formulations. Further to this, a series of 20- minute exhibitor demonstrations will take place on Thursday, 19 November.


Climate change and the cosmetics industry Opening the 2020 in-cosmetics Formulation Summit, Dr Barbara Brockway, director, Personal Care, Applied DNA Sciences, will deliver the keynote address.


PERSONAL CARE EUROPE


for innovation in this field increase, there are also emerging formulation challenges. Konstantinos Gardikis, R&D director at APIVITA, will help attendees understand the challenges facing cosmetic manufacturers, drawing upon APIVITA’s initiatives for a healthier planet, both at applied research and industrial level. Offering additional insights into the


topic of sustainability, Nicolas Huang, associate professor at Université Paris- Saclay, will take a close look at innovative emulsions stabilised by biodegradable nanoparticles. Emulsions, widely used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications, have been known to cause direct or indirect toxicity and environmental issues. For example, skin irritations are sometimes observed, since surfactants disrupt the skin barrier function. In his presentation, Nicolas will


She will be followed by Andrew McDougall, associate director – Beauty & Personal Care at Mintel, who will deliver an exclusive presentation on trends related to climate change, as well as COVID-19.


The drive for sustainable beauty Fourteen separate presentations, panel discussions and main stage interviews will drill down into the wider topic of sustainability. Here, brands will demonstrate how they are tackling environmental issues and the role of packaging and processing in reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products. Presentations will also reveal the use of microalgae as a source of sustainable and renewal cosmetic ingredients and how waste materials and bioproducts of the food industry can be effectively processed to deliver effective and natural ingredients. The cosmetic sector is already playing


an important role in pioneering a more sustainable approach to formulation and product development. As the opportunities


demonstrate the innovative approach developed in the Université Paris-Saclay lab, based on the stabilisation of emulsions by biodegradable nanoparticles, and their physicochemical implications. He will explain how research undertaken in the lab has proved that the presence or absence of these stabilising polymers in the nanoparticle preparation has led to very different emulsion morphologies. This work stresses the paramount influence of the physicochemical nature of the nanoparticle surface into the stabilisation of such emulsions. In another session, Iguatemi Costa,


senior scientific manager for Natural and Sustainable Ingredients at Natura, will cover the vision and practices needed to innovate below 1.5°C. Through this presentation, Iguatemi will detail case examples and practices of phytocosmetic ingredient development and their relationship to low carbon production, before inviting attendees to debate the importance of sustainability in the cosmetics industry.


Formulating for a brighter future Delivering insights into sustainable formulations, experts will also share specific


November 2020


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