ANTI-POLLUTION 45
Multidimensional skin protection
n Annette Mehling, Jan Peter Koch, David Freytag, Robert Jung, Heidi Riedel, Helga Gondek, Petra Schulte – BASF, Germany
Scientific research has taught us a lot about how air pollution negatively affects our respiratory and cardiovascular health. According to the World Health Organization (WHO), only one in ten people lives in a city that complies with the WHO safety limits for air quality,1
and this
concern is becoming increasingly prevalent across the globe. But what exactly do we understand by “air pollution”? While the majority of people might first think of motor vehicle exhaust, this is by no means the only source of pollutants we encounter in our everyday life. In principle, pollution can be defined as contaminants introduced into to the environment and which have an adverse effect either on the environment or living beings. Pollutants are very diverse in nature ranging from particulate matter, radiation, heat and light, to noise and noxious gases. Pollutants can originate from both natural and anthropogenic sources. In terms of particulate matter, the first category includes dust and sandstorms, pollen, or ash from volcanic activity. Not only motor vehicle emissions are important anthropogenic sources, but also discharge from industrial facilities, waste incineration, construction sites, and domestic cooking and heating, whether based on fossil fuels or other energy sources. Particulate matter (PM) is categorised according to size into ultrafine (< 2.5 μm), fine (2.5–10 μm) and coarse (10 μm) particles. These particles travel freely through the air and, depending on their size, can get trapped in the nose and throat or even enter the lungs. For our skin, however, this differentiation
rather takes a back seat. Being the natural barrier between the environment and our body, the skin is directly exposed to all kinds of pollutants. A growing number of studies indicate that pollutants also pose a threat to skin health, with effects ranging from aesthetic changes to alterations on a cellular level, depending on the degree of pollutant exposure and the pollutant’s mode of action. Particulate matter itself can cause damage, but also the substances adhering to the particles, e.g. polyaromatic
November 2020
Abstract
With increasing urbanisation, the potentially negative effects of air pollution on the skin have moved into consumers’ focus. In order to meet the evolving demand for cosmetic products that offer effective protection against harmful environmental influences, an approach was developed in which individual cosmetic ingredients were tested for their anti-pollution efficacy. The systematic analysis targeted four key mechanisms of action: anti-adhesion, removability, anti-penetration, and cleansing. New skin care formulations based on these findings were used to develop a holistic approach which comprehensively helps shield the skin against particulate matter.
hydrocarbons and/or metals. In a recent expert review, for instance, evidence was provided that acne symptoms can be aggravated in regions of high ambient air pollution. Factors included the overall depletion of antioxidants in the skin, oxidative stress leading to e.g. the oxidation of sebum components such as squalene, and the inflammatory cascade induced after pollutant exposure.2
matter derived from soot and/or traffic showed a correlation to an increase in facial pigment spots (lentigines).4
In addition,
particulate matter has been reported to negatively impact the skin barrier function, one of the primary defences of our body to external aggressors. Pan et al., for example, observed an increased drug absorption due to skin barrier damage.5
Results
from a further study indicated that indoor PM2.5 exposure is associated with skin ageing manifestations in a Chinese population, with an increase of hyperpigmentation on the forehead and wrinkles on the upper lip being observed.3 The impact of air pollution on the skin of Caucasian women was assessed by Vierkötter et al. Increased exposure of subjects aged 70–80 years to particulate
Protecting the skin in four dimensions With the number of studies that deal with the deleterious effects of particulate matter on our skin rising, consumer awareness has substantially increased that effective protection against pollution is essential. To this end, a systematic approach to identify ingredients for skin care formulations that help protect the skin from particulate
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
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