52 NATURALS
Recharging the cell batteries from the roots
n Alexandre Lapeyre, Amandine Werle, Julie Droux - Clariant Active Ingredients, France
We are living in a changing world, in which we are having to adjust our normal habits and come to terms with new situations and unexpected stress. The worry and reality of dramatically increasing unemployment rates. For those who can work from home, mental strain can increase and, as some people have difficulties in “disconnecting” at the end of the working day, levels of fatigue and stress also increase quickly. Our social interactions have also been modified, generating stress and limitations in the direct contact we can have with friends and colleagues. All these changes, and many others, require adaptation from our side, and adaptation requires a lot of energy. As our body is emptying its energy reserves, its capacity to renew its cells and repair cellular damages, or to fight free radicals, is impaired. Signs of fatigue appear and leave visible traces on our skin, which becomes dull, lacks firmness and ages prematurely. But change is not only negative. As we
spend more time at home, we can also take more time to refocus on ourselves, looking for comforting routines that make us feel well. Also, as we are now much more conscious of the effects of using resources from the other side of the world, we are also looking for more ingredients and raw materials sourced locally and with limited negative impact on the environment, where we can feel reassured of their quality and safety. Using fewer products,
Phosphoglucose isomerase Aldolase A Aldolase B
Triose phosphate isomarase
Glyceraldehyde 3-phosphate dehydrogenase Phosphoglyceromutase 1 Phosphoglyceromutase 2 Enolase 1
Pyruvate kinase M Transketolase Transaldolase
a- Ketoglutarate dehydrogenase, DLST subunit Succinyl-CoA synthetase Fumarase
but of high quality and proven efficacy, can be comforting both mentally and physically. To respond to these new consumers’ needs,
Clariant Active Ingredients developed a natural active ingredient in partnership with a French biotech. Made in France, 100% traceable from the seed to the extract, and sustainable, it targets a large range of cellular biological processes from energy production to protein maturation in order to reinforce the extracellular matrix. This ingredient efficiently recharges the cells’ energy levels to improve the overall quality of the skin and can be included in premium skin care routines to fight signs of stress and ageing caused by our new way of life.
Reboosting cells’ energy levels to reinforce the extracellular matrix Cells need energy in order to fulfil their biological mechanisms, such as protein syntheses, transport of substances or mechanical work. This energy is stored in the form of carbohydrates and fats from food intake. When required by the cells, it is converted into the universal energy-rich molecule called Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP), that carries it wherever energy is needed. Cells are continuously synthetising and breaking down ATP molecules to obtain energy. But accumulation of external stresses disturbs the cellular mechanisms.
Reference
1.31** 1.19#
1.26* 1.24* 1.15# 1.20*
1.15# 1.23* 1.15# 1.19* 1.22# 1.28# 1.20# 1.18#
Figure 1: Induction of 3 main metabolic pathways – gene expression analysis. PERSONAL CARE EUROPE
Metabolic pathways that transform nutrients into ATP, such as glycolysis, pentose phosphate pathway (PPP), or TCA cycle (Krebs cycle) become less efficient in producing metabolites and ATP. The transportation of metabolites to the mitochondria, called the powerhouse of the cell as they produce important amounts of ATP, via SLC25 transporters is also affected. As a result, the mitochondria, where most of the ATP is produced through the respiratory cycle, see their respiratory capacity decrease. In addition, other transportation channels that aid protein maturation (SLC35 transporters) are also less efficient. Less ATP and impaired transportation of metabolites leads to a drop in the production of extracellular matrix components such as collagen type- IV and elastic fibres. The matrix degrades and skin loses its elasticity and firmness. To fight the drawback of lack of energy due to the continuous adaptation to changes and stress we are facing, added to the natural loss of energy due to ageing, our skin needs specific solutions to recharge its batteries. Rootness™ Energize, a new ingredient
rich in bryonolic acid, has demonstrated strong capacities in reactivating different metabolic processes leading to energy and matrix constituent production through a transcriptomic study on more than 20,000 genes and a proteomic study on more than 2,500 proteins. On reconstructed skin epidermis, gene expression analysis by Affymetrix technique showed that Rootness Energize at 0.5% boosts key sets of genes involved in the three main metabolic pathways (glycolysis, PPP, TCA cycle) (Fig 1). These results are confirmed by protein
* p< 0.05 ** p< 0.01 # p< 0.1
expression analysis on a 42-year-old’s skin explant with Rootness Energize (now referred to as ‘ the natural energy booster’) at 1%, showing that metabolic pathways required for cell energy production are stimulated. In addition, the transcriptomic study showed that the expression of the genes belonging to the SLC25 family of transporters, participating in the transport of metabolites needed for ATP production, is also increased.
November 2020
TCA cycle
PPP
Glycolysis
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