FORMULATIONS
Foundation With LightWaves Defense [JS+M]
Phase Product/INCI A
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate Glyceryl Stearate Stearyl Alcohol Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate
Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
B Aqua Glycerin
Sodium Phytate (and) Aqua (and) Alcohol Pentylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum (and) Aqua Chlorphenesin
Ci 77891 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide Ci 77492 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide Ci 77491 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide
C
Ci 77499 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxylauryldimonium Ethyl Phosphate Phenoxyethanol
LightWaves Defense [JS+M] – Glycerin (and) Jasminum Sambac Leaf Cell Extract Talc Chlorite
A light texture enriched with pigments to lighten the skin
%
5.0000 6.0000 5.0000 4.0000 6.0000
58.5662 2.0000 0.1000 1.0000 0.3000 0.2500 8.0000 0.8000 0.2000 0.0300
0.8000 0.5000 1.0000
Procedure:Weigh the components of the phase A. Shake and heat at 75˚C. Preparation of the phase B: weigh water, glycerin and the product made of (Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol). Stir and start to heat. At 50˚C put the premix made of (Pentylene Glycol, Xantham Gum, Aqua), keep on stirring and heating up to homogeneous. At 75˚C, under stirring, sprinkle the Chlorphenesin and keep on stirring at 75˚C up to homogeneous. Then add the pigments one by one and stir using a Turrax (2 min at 9500 rpm). At 75˚C, make the emulsion by pouring phase A in phase B and start to cool while maintaining the stirring speed. At 72˚C use the Turrax (2 min at 13500 rpm) and keep on cooling under moderate stirring. At 30˚C, put in components of phase C one by one, while checking homogeneity between each addition. Then assess pH and adjust if necessary (5.00-6.00).
Natural Grey Night Cream With OvernightEnhance [MJ+C]
Phase Product/INCI A
Aqua Glycerin
B C
D E
Lysolecithin Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Pullulan (and) Silica CI 77499 (and) Glycerin (and) Aqua (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Sodium Citrate Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Garcinia Indica Seed Butter C-10 C-18 Triglycerides
Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and) Tocopherol CI 77019 (and) CI 77891
Overnight Enhance [MJ+C] – Mirabilis Jalapa Callus Extract (and) Glycerin Lactobacillus (and) Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract Lactobacillus Ferment
Parfum (and) Linalool (and) Geraniol (and) Coumarin Aqua (and) Citric Acid
A rich grey cream, that does not leave a greasy residue
%
70.92 4.00 2.00
0.20 5.00
2.50 5.00
2.00 0.40
2.50 2.00 2.00 0.20 1.28
Procedure: Prepare phase A: weigh water and glycerin. Start stirring and heat to 75°C. At 75°C, when highly stirring, sprinkle lightly the ecogel and keep at the same temperature while highly stirring during 20 minutes. When homogeneous, add phase B just before starting the emulsion. Prepare phase C: weigh the components and start to stir and heat at 75°C while stirring, until homogeneous. To make the emulsion: At 75˚C, while highly stirring, pour the phase C into the phase AB, start to cool while maintaining the speed of stirring. At 72˚C, use Turrax for 30 sec at 9500 rpm, and keep cooling while stirring moderately. Separately mix phase D in a beaker, then add to phase ABC at 50˚C – keep on cooling. At 35˚C, components of the phase E in the recommended order. Check the right homogeneity between each addition. Measure the pH and adjust if necessary (4.00-4.20).
92 | LITTLE BOOK OF TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES
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