innovations in skin care
when it is needed which is perfect for an antioxidant ingredient as it is released more when the free radical threat increases; in short it is a skin care ingredient that works hard when you do!”
Sharon Hilditch adds: “Among delivery technologies are lipid systems, nanoparticles,microcapsules, polymers and film. Encapsulation involves the entrapment of the active ingredient within a polymeric, phopholipid or carbohydrate delivery systemsuch asmicrospheres, liposomes and
nanoparticles.The purpose ofmicroencapsulation is to use a protective coating to prevent the core active ingredient fromcoming into contact with the external environment.”
Nanotechnology has also recently inflatrated into skin care, in particular where sunscreen filters such as Zinc Oxide andTitaniumDioxide are concerned.
According to Sally Penford, Education Manager for Dermalogica: “Nanotechnology is simply the study and application of very small things. One nanometer is a billionth of ametre, and for comparison’s sake, a sheet of newspaper is about 100,000 nanometers thick.A human hair is about 80,000 nanometers in diameter.”
There has however been some controversy regarding nanotechnology used in skin care due to the fact that the tiny particlesmay have different properties to that of a full-size component. “Onemajor controversial nanomaterial in skin care is in the formof
buckyballs.These areminute football- looking particles that are shown to be antioxidants, which we know can fight premature ageing to the
skin.The problemis their size,” says Sally. “Concerns around thesemini-balls are that these nanoparticlesmay slip and potentially get into the bloodstream, affecting our immune system.”
However, when it comes to Zinc Oxide andTitaniumDioxide as sunscreen filters, the FDA and other global government organisations have reviewed the safety of themand they have been deemed safe for use as sunscreen filters on human skin.
SPFs in skin care
Sun Protection Factors (SPF) are well established, but in recent years, as more research into the effects of the sun has been carried out, SPFs within regular skin care products have quite often
become staple and the ingredients that offer this protection has become increasingly advanced, changing to prevent reactions from skin.
“There is the inevitable challenge of sensitisation from very high levels of chemical sunscreens. The higher the SPF value, the more chemical sunscreen that needs to be added, as emulsifiers in the formula interfere with the activity of the sunscreen. This has made SPF30, up to this point, the safe limit to avoid over sensitising skin,” says Candice Gardner, Education CurriculumManager for the International Dermal Institute.
“But the good news is that Oleosome technology is revolutionising the skin care and sunscreen market. Oleosomes are naturally-ocurring spheres of plant oils and vitamin E found in Safflower seeds. These Oleosomes can act as carrier molecules for product actives, essential oils and sunscreens. They are also natural emulsifiers meaning that additional emulsifiers can be reduced in formulas and the sunscreen can produce a higher SPF value with less chemical sunscreen agents.”
With the inclusion of Olesomes, formulas can be boosted from SPF30 to SPF50, with the Olesomes delivering agents to the skin in a time-released fashion for greater skin benefits.
Another new technology that can be found in products with an SPF is UV Smart Booster technology, which have the purpose of reducing the side effects of the sun. “There is a growing trend to add further ingredients into products containing SPF to reduce the other damaging effects of sun exposure beyond burning,” says Sharon Cass.
Candice adds: “The inclusion of antioxidant protection using vitamins C and E has been shown in clinical studies to support the SPF by neutralising damaging free radicals generated by the sun and not screened by the SPF values.”
When the skin is exposed to UV, the UV Smart Booster microcapsule releases vitamins, reducing sun-induced changes such as pigmentation, wrinkling, atinic keratosis and even skin cancer, according to Candice.
However, Sharon Cass points out that we should be aware of these boosters: “We have to be careful when promoting these types of active ingredients as ‘boosters’ as people still need to adhere to normal exposure times to avoid burning and we
do not want them to think they can use a lower SPF. However, the addition of these actives reduce free radical photo- damage, inflammation, keratinisation and premature ageing, which are perfect benefits for anti-ageing SPF products.
“One range of actives in this group that are trending well are taken from Algae sources such as golden seaweed’sAntileukine 6. This category of ingredients contains actives that reduce the inflammatory pathway that cause so much damage after sun exposure. These actives have evolved because theAlgaes build up these defences when exposed on the shoreline to the sun at low tides and when extracted create highly active skin care ingredients. The results on the skin reduce redness and inflammation, reduce photodamage more visibly and are very well tolerated by the skin.”
the future in skin care
With the industry constantly evolving, further developments will be just around the corner, so what’s the next ‘big thing’ for skin care?
DrAriel Haus believes that machine- based systems will be taking their turn next. “The industry is evolving at great pace and particularly so with technology based treatment systems (machines) to help improve skin tone and rebuild collagen,” he says.
“I would say that we should look out for new lasers and bi-polar radio frequency treatments that are less invasive with reduced down-time, but that do the job as more invasive lasers.”
Of course, ingredients will also be continuously developing; making it even easier for clients to achieve the results they’re
after.As therapists, keeping up with innovations is key in order to keep up with your clients’ needs. “All the developments in skin care will have a huge impact on skin care professionals,” says Dr Haus. “They will find they have to constantly keep up-to-date with the latest formulations and ingredients and so may have to be retrained frequently. Even if their salon does not use these new ingredients or products, in order to keep up with their competitors they have to be educated and informed on these so that they can answer clients’ questions.”
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