Q&AwithDermalogica
ask the expert Sally Penford answers common questions about sunscreens.
Q:Why are we seeingmore sunscreens incorporated intomoisturisers when we rarely get any sunny days?
A: Every day you walk from your house to your car, pop out for lunch or go for a walk in the park, your skin is exposed to daylight and Ultraviolet (UV) Rays. The myth that you are not exposed to skin damage when it’s cloudy or through theWinter is simply not true.We may conclude that the lack of warmth felt inWinter means less UV but actually what you are feeling is just reduced levels of UVB which are the rays that cause the superficial burning of the skin. The longer UVA rays are in fact just as intense sun up to sun down from January to December.
Plus, UVA penetrates your skin more deeply than UVB causing significant and irreversible damage to the deeper parts and this causes wrinkles, thinning of the skin and atrophy. Besides concerns about ageing studies from Queensland Institute ofMedical Research in Herston,Australia, have reported that individuals who wear sunscreen daily, even inWinter, had 24% fewerActinic Kerasotes (the most common precancerous skin lesion) than people who applied it once in a while.
So in a nutshell, your clients could be using the most incredible moisturiser to treat ageing skin with all the latest technology to fight damage, but if they do not use a sunscreen all year round you will be constantly fighting a losing
battle.Always recommend a high quality moisturiser to suit the skin’s requirements and then check for UV protection minimum SPF 15 to truly give skin the protection it deserves.
Q:What new technology can be found in sunscreens today?
A: The plant kingdomonce again provides cosmetic chemists with a new technology that plays an important role in sunscreen formulations. Known as Oleosomes, these oil capsules are found naturally in various plants and seeds, providing a reservoir for plant oils that provide an energy source for the plant. Cosmetic scientists have learned that these spherical structures can be loaded with active substances such as sunscreens, providing both ameans of delivery, as well as, a stabilised environment for actives that may break down under normal conditions. Oleosomes represent the next generation in encapsulation.
They also act as natural emulsifying agents, allowing us to reduce the amount of emulsifier used in a formula.Why is this important? Becausewe nowknow that emulsifying agents can interferewith chemical sunscreen activity, especially when higher SPFs are used.When Oleosomes loadedwith active sunscreens are added to a formula, less of the regular emulsifying agents are
required.The end result is thatwe get a boost to SPF activity with a lower concentration of sunscreen actives and emulsifiers.
This is a real bonus, especially for individuals thatmay find higher concentrations of chemical sunscreens potentially irritating.When applied to the skin, Oleosomes collapse in a timed- release fashion, delivering the sunscreen protection over a period of time. Not since the development of UV Smart Booster technology, which delivered antioxidant capsules to provide enhanced sunscreen protection, has there been such exciting new technology that promises to change the development of sunscreen products.
Q:My client has complained that they burned their skin while on holiday, even though they had applied the sun protection product that I had recommended. What went wrong?
A: I would hazard a guess that your client did not use enough sunscreen or reapply regularly enough. Studies indicate that most people do not apply nearly as much daylight protection as they should and assume that their morning application will last them the whole day. Here are my top tips for sunscreen application.
Most adults should use about 35ml or 1 oz. of sunscreen to cover their whole body. That's the same amount that would fit into a shot glass. It's also about the same as an adult handful. Remember, most people don't apply enough sunscreen – it’s OK to use more than you think you should.
Advise your clients to apply sunscreen 30 minutes before going out in the sun - this gives the ingredients time to attach to the skin. They should cover all of the skin that's exposed to the sun including the back, ears, behind the knees and legs with the same amount should be reapplied every two hours. Sunscreen should be reapplied as soon as you have finished swimming, towelling off, or sweating
heavily.Yep, the whole
35ml.And remember, sunscreen is not failsafe so recommend to your clients that they keep out of the mid- day sun, cover up and wear a hat!
Sally Penford is EducationManager for The
International Dermal Institute. For more information, telephone 08000 564 544 or visit
www.dermalinstitute.co.uk
116 GUILD NEWS
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