innovations in skin care
Combinations of these opposites are also seen as beneficial to those suffering from particular skin concerns. “The Spa market is booming and clients are expectingmore fromtheir skin care. By combining ingredients fromnature and scientific developments we are able to give themthe results they desire,” says VictoriaTrueman, National Education Manager at Comfort Zone UK.
Lydia Safarti, Repêchage CEO and Founder, is a supporter of the developments in natural ingredients. “Providing your clients with themost breakthrough natural treatments that the industry has to offer will be crucial to their treatment. In the past, ingredients such as Hydroquinone andMercury Chloride have been used to treat
hyperpigmentation.These ingredients, however, have been linked to a variety of issues, even when used in small
percentages.Today, we have groundbreaking natural ingredients, treatments and at-home care products that can help treat hyperpigmentation without taking the risk of causing your client future health complications. Innovative marine biotechnology, revolutionary peptide research and the earth’s natural botanicals can now help to rapidly reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone while battling hyperpigmentation to get your sun worshippers back on track.
“Look for ingredients such as Bellis Daisy, Liquorice Extract andWillow Bark Extract for brightening properties andMatrixyl 3000 and Red Clover Extract for their anti-ageing benefits.”
Sharon Cass of Cosmeceuticals also recognises the current ‘hype’ surrounding natural and plant-based ingredients: “The trend for natural botanical ingredients that still provide visible results is gaining ground and consumers particularly like the use of ‘superfood’ type ingredients such as teas and
fruit.These ingredients are rich in natural vitamin sources and / or polyphenol actives that have high levels of antioxidants and are also often anti-inflammatory.
“The current leader in this area is CoffeeBerry®
extract, which has the
largest ORAC (free radical protection), followed by new super green teas such as YerbaMaté (a Brazilian GreenTea). Super Berries such as Bitter Cherry are high in natural vitaminA andAscerola Cherry is the highest source of natural vitamin C currently
available.These ingredients are very stable but are often further embellished with encapsulated delivery systems to increase their effects.” However, DrAriel Haus believes that it’s
the latest in cosmeceutical ingredients that will shape the future of skin care. “There is no doubt that cosmeceutical ingredients and dermatologist approved products will be themainstay of the future of skin care,” he says. “We can already see this through the increase in sales and popularity of brands such as La Roche-Posay skin care and SkinCeuticals. Natural ingredients do have their place but if you want result-driven products look to cosmeceuticals.”
One of the newest ingredients’ tomake a breakthrough are peptides, which if you work in the industry you will have probably already heard about as they’re making an appearance in plenty of results-driven anti-ageing products and treatments.
“Peptides are among some of the newest ingredients to be utilised for anti-ageing benefits,” says Sharon Hilditch,MD of Crystal Clear. “They are highly effective at penetrating into the skin to help stimulate the production of new collagen and elastin.
“Peptides are synthetic proteins that have been built up fromsmaller protein molecules, amino
acids.Although long chain proteins cannot penetrate through the epidermis because of their larger molecule size, peptides can. Peptides can also help turn on the Fibroblast cells, which in turn triggers the chain reaction of building and repairing the dermis.
According to Sharon,Matrixyl, Syn-ake and Biopeptide CL are three of themost proven and effective peptides when used in skin care products.
Matrixyl is popular for reducing the signs of wrinkles by stimulating thematrix molecules and the development of the lower layers of the skin, designed to trigger a ‘heal and repair’ response, creatingmore collagen.
Another peptide designed to banish wrinkles, Syn-ake is an active ingredients based on a synthetic tripeptide that mimics the effect ofWagerlin1, a peptide that is found in the venomof theTemple Viper Snake. “Once the snake has bitten its prey, the venomblocks the nerve impulses to themuscles, thereby paralysing the victim,” says Sharon. “In preventing the neuromuscular contractions, the ingredients visibly reduce wrinkles – a fact that has been proved through clinical trials.”
Designed to actively stimulate collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis, Biopeptide CL can be compared to
retinoic acid (vitaminA) and is recommended for the restruction of the dermalmatrix, firming wrinkles. “Thanks to protein and glycan neosyntheses (important factor in protein formation), skin grows thicker, firmer and wrinkles become
smoother.Thismember of peptides stimulates the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid in deep layers of the
skin.The production of extra cellularmatrix also protects skin against UV rays, thus helping to protect the skin fromdamage,” says Sharon.
Sharon has also identified some further effective new ingredients, including Lumiskin™, which is a skin brightening agent sourced fromthe bark of a tree fromChile. It works by stabilising Tyrosinase (enzyme responsible for Melanin synthesis) in its inactive form. “In unstimulated cells, calciumis an inhibitory factor toTyrosinase activity. Lumiskin regulates the calcium availability formelanin synthesis; Tyrosinase activity is reduced by about 50%and the quantity ofmelanin produced is reduced to 70%,” says Sharon.
Also designed for anti-ageing products, Thalassine is a new algae derived anti- ageing skin care ingredient which is derived fromthe alcohol extracted from the tentacles of a sea anemone, which use venomto stun their
prey.This ingredient has a similar effect to Botox® paralyses the facialmuscles.
in that it
delivery technologies With all these well thought-out advancements in ingredients, it’s key that they reach where they need in the epidermis in order to attain results. For this reason delivery systems are a valuable innovation in the industry.
“This area of research is fundamentally important in terms of getting ingredients to the correct areas of the skin and ensuring they are stable and active,” comments Sharon Cass. “We are all familiar with time released liposome delivery systems and these remain extremely effective and innovative; however, a new generation of ‘on demand’ skin care ingredients will become the next frontier in innovation.”
“Currently taking centre stage of this genre is the Idebenone Ester, which is delivered across the lipid barrier by the addition of a fatty acid tail,making it very compatible with the skin and unlikely to cause irritation. Once delivered it is released by the skin only
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