MAKEUP REMOVERS 59
solid anhydrous balm for a more sensorial, spa- like experience. In its solid state, the balm is a Structured
Crystal Network of natural waxes and emollients. This structure provides a stable, ‘non-leak’ format ideal for travel. Upon contact with the skin, the body temperature and mechanical massage trigger the ‘melting texture’, transitioning the network into a rich oil that offers excellent glide for a massage ritual.
The technical triumph of TCB006C lies in its
rinse-off precision. Natural waxes are notoriously difficult to remove, often leaving a ‘clinging’ film. However, the synergistic effect of SCP4-C and SunSoft Q-17D-C(MB) (INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate) ensures high-efficiency emulsification; once water is added, the waxes are instantly incorporated into fine droplets. The result is a premium finish: the skin feels luxuriously soft and hydrated—thanks to the humectant properties of the PGFE backbone—without any waxy residue.
Mastering the double- transformation mechanism TCC003C (Table 3) represents the pinnacle of transformative formulation, utilizing a ‘double- transformation’ mechanism to optimize both sensorial luxury and clinical efficacy.
Initial state: stabilizing the HIPE O/W structure The formulation begins as a sophisticated High Internal Phase Emulsion (HIPE) O/W cream, containing nearly 70% oil. Stabilizing such a high oil load in a water-continuous system is a significant feat. TAISET 50-C(MB) (INCI: Polyglyceryl-6
Octastearate, Glyceryl Behenate) is utilized to strengthen the interfacial film, ensuring the cream remains robust and elegant in its packaging while preventing premature oil separation.
The first transformation: cream to oil (makeup dissolution) As the consumer massages the cream onto the skin, the slight evaporation of water from the external phase acts as a trigger. This reduction in water volume, combined with the physical stimulus of the finger massage, forces the densely packed oil droplets to contact and coalesce. Facilitated by the Gemini-like flexible structure
Before Cleansing VCO003C (SCP4-C system)
Conventional PGFE Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate
Crystal Clear
Turbidity / Sedimentation
Figure 4: Visual appearance after three weeks at 5°C. VCO003C remains clear, while the conventional system (Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate 10%, Oil 90%) exhibits significant turbidity and sedimentation.
of SCP4-C—a unique structural adaptability derived from its cross-linked polymeric architecture—the system undergoes a rapid phase inversion to a water-in-oil (W/O) state. In this ‘oil’ phase, the formulation dissolves hydrophobic impurities, such as long-wear foundation and oxidized sebum, with maximum efficiency.
The second transformation: oil to milk (the seamless rinse-off) Upon rinsing, the system must ‘re-invert’ back to an O/W milk. Leveraging its flexible structure and remarkable ability to lower interfacial tension, SCP4-C ensures that the dense oil phase is instantly broken down into fine droplets. This second transformation provides the
consumer with the ‘milk’ signal, confirming that the makeup and oils have been successfully encapsulated and removed, leaving the skin satin- smooth and deeply hydrated without a second wash.
The technical shift in phase is more than a
scientific feat; it is a vital part of the consumer’s emotional ritual. In modern skin care, cleansing is a moment of self-care.
VCO003C (SCP4-C system) Base Oil (without surfactant) The sensory journey—from a comforting cream
to a rich, makeup-dissolving oil, and finally to a refreshing milk—provides the consumer with tactile confirmation of efficacy at every stage. This sensory feedback enhances brand loyalty by turning a routine task into a pampering experience.
Conclusion The maturation of the clean beauty market demands scientific rigor. As demonstrated, the unique Gemini-like architecture and higher polymeric design of SunSoft SCP4-C(MB) allow formulators to transcend traditional limitations. By achieving dramatic reductions in interfacial
tension while ensuring exceptional safety and skin-eye mildness, Taiyo Kagaku provides the essential tools for next-generation makeup removers. These formulations do more than just cleanse;
they harmonize professional-grade efficacy with transformative sensorial experiences that captivate consumers, delivering a sophisticated, non-irritating, and deeply hydrating journey that aligns with the highest standards of modern skin care.
PCM
References 1. Yoshimura T, Esumi K. Properties of New Gemini and Trimeric Surfactants. J Jpn Soc Colour Mater. 2004;77(4):177-183
Appearance
2. Menger FM, Littau CA. Gemini Surfactants: A New Class of Self-Assembling Molecules. J Am Chem Soc. 1993;115(22):10083-10090
3. Higuchi T, Matsumoto Y. Skin Care Effect of Cleansing Agents Using Polyglycerol Fatty Acid Esters. Oleoscience. 2022;22(9):451-459
Removal rate of artificial sebum plugs (N=4)
77.3%** 62.8%
Figure 5: Evaluation of sebum plug removal. Artificial plugs in embossed synthetic leather were massaged 60 times at 25°C. VCO003C (SCP4-C system) shows a significantly higher removal rate compared to the oil-only control (N=4, **p<0.01)
www.personalcaremagazine.com
4. Technical Report. From powerful makeup removal to refreshing rinse-off: Advancing cleansing oils with SUNSOFT PGFEs. SpecialChem Case Study.
5. Koyagi T, Hirohata R. Scalp care focusing on lipid peroxide. Fragrance Journal. 2012;40(10):16-22
July 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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