MAKEUP REMOVERS 57 at the oil-water interface.1,2 Consequently, Gemini-
like molecules exhibit a significantly lower critical micelle concentration (CMC) and a greater ability to reduce interfacial tension even at extremely low concentrations.
The thermodynamic drive for this efficient
adsorption stems from the presence of two hydrophobic chains, which enhances the ‘hydrophobic effect’ during micellization and interfacial alignment. Data confirms that SCP4-C reduces static interfacial tension far more effectively than traditional benchmarks (Figure 1). Historically, surfactants such as PEG-20
Glyceryl Triisostearate or Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate were favoured for their high emulsifying efficiency in oil-based cleansers. However, SCP4-C disrupts this narrative by offering a natural option that actually surpasses these synthetic standards.
2. Fine emulsification and the ‘gel phase’ problem When water is introduced during the rinsing step, the speed and quality of emulsification determine the sensory experience during rinsing. As shown in Figure 2, the SCP4-C system transforms into a fine Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsion with a median particle size (D50) of approximately 0.654 0.654um. This is significantly smaller than the ~3.7 µm observed in conventional systems. A critical finding in this research is the
avoidance of “gel formation” during rinsing. Many conventional surfactants, including PEG-based ones, trigger the formation of a heterogeneous, viscous gel phase when first in contact with a small amount of water. This gel phase is the primary culprit behind
the persistent greasiness perceived by consumers during the rinse-off process, as it hinders the oil from being washed away cleanly. SCP4-C skips this gel phase, transitioning instantly into a low- viscosity milk, ensuring a refreshingly clean finish.
3. Moisture retention, superior mildness, and skin-barrier protection Beyond cleansing, SCP4-C offers inherent skin care benefits driven by its molecular weight and structure. While traditional, low-molecular-weight surfactants can penetrate the skin barrier and cause discomfort, the high-polymeric architecture of SCP4-C ensures superior skin and eye mildness. Its large molecular size limits penetration into the deeper layers of the epidermis, resulting in
SCP4-C
Median Particle Size (D50 / µm)
0.654 Comparison of static interfacial tension Cetyl Ethlhexanoate ■ Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride ■
7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 Without surfactant SCP4-C
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
Figure 1: Comparison of static interfacial tension. Static interfacial tension measured via the Wilhelmy method at 25°C. Surfactant concentrations were 0.01 wt% for Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and 0.005 wt% for Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. Lower interfacial tension indicates superior emulsification efficiency at low concentrations
TABLE 1 Phase
1 2 3 Ingredient SunSoft SCP4-C(MB)
SunSoft Q-17D-C(MB)
INCI Name
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 4 Olive Fruit Oil Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil Function
Emulsifier / Cleansing
Emulsifier / Cleansing
Base Base % 3.5 6.5 45.0 45.0
Table 1: Formulation #VCO003C Pure Iconic Cleansing Oil I. Sensory path: oil → milk. Technical path: Reverse micellar solution → fine O/W emulsion. Preparation: Ingredients (1-4) are mixed and dissolved at 75°C to ensure a homogeneous reverse micellar phase, then cooled to 30°C under continuous stirring
minimal irritancy—a critical requirement for “tear- free” or sensitive-skin makeup removers. Furthermore, PGFEs are increasingly
recognized for their active role in skin hydration. Literature reviews on PGFE technology highlight that these esters do not just serve as cleansing agents but can actively improve skin condition
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate 3.793
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
3.788
by maintaining the moisture levels of the stratum corneum.3 As demonstrated in Figure 3, weight-change
monitoring validates that SCP4-C maintains significantly higher moisture levels post-cleansing compared to PEG-based surfactants. Advanced evaluative techniques, such as Moisture Mapping,3,4
reveal that PGFE-based systems
support a more hydrated stratum corneum. This high level of safety and hydration
allows the skin to remain supple, positioning the cleansing step as the first step of skin care rather than just the last step of makeup removal.
Visual observation of emulsification state
(Sample and water mixed in a 2:1 ratio)
Forms uniform milk Heterogeneous gel formation
Figure 2: Analysis of emulsification behaviour. D50 was measured via laser diffraction using a 10% surfactant / 90% Cetyl Ethylhexanoate system
www.personalcaremagazine.com
High-performance formulations: translating science into iconic textures Having established the superior interfacial properties of SCP4-C, we now explore how this science is translated into market-ready, iconic textures. Driven by the Asian beauty philosophy, these formulations prioritise dissolving makeup and impurities deep within the pores without the need for harsh mechanical friction.
July 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE ≈ ≈ 21.4 16.5
Significant reduction in interfacial tension
Static interfacial tension (mN/m)
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