28 COLOUR COSMETICS
within cosmetic formulations. These studies highlight how such esters optimize pigment compatibility with both oil and water phases, while simultaneously enhancing the sensory profile by imparting a distinctive texture to the finished product.
ColorGlam– coated pigments For the development of coated pigment powders, Tripelargonin (EU INCI) / C8-12 Acid Triglyceride (WW INCI) was selected as the coating agent. Tripelargonin (EU INCI) / C8-12 Acid
Triglyceride (EMotion Light). is a pure medium- chain triglyceride known for its excellent balance between emolliency and light sensory profile. It is pelargonic acid-derived ester from green chemistry technology of a controlled EU supply chain. The pelargonic acid is fully derived from the purification of sunflower seed oil and the esterification is performed by green chemistry process. Parameters such as polarity, spreadability and
wetting ability has been evaluated to understand how the esters can improve technical and sensorial features of pigments.
Polarity
Among the chemical attributes investigated, polarity emerged as a pivotal criterion for selecting esters as pigment coating agents. To characterize the ester, its polarity was classified using high- performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). This analysis was performed on an Agilent 1100
system equipped with a reverse-phase gradient setup, utilizing a Phenomenex Gemini C18 column as the stationary phase. The mobile phase consisted of a binary gradient: (A) water with 0.1% formic acid and (B) methanol. This method allows for the precise categorization of emollients based on their relative affinity for the non-polar stationary phase versus the polar mobile phase (Figure 1).
Based on these results, the ester shows a medium polarity value compared to the other esters. Utilizing a medium-polarity ester is essential
for pigment coating, as it acts as a chemical bridge between the polar surface of the pigment and the surrounding formulation. These esters provide superior wetting properties, effectively displacing
100 80 60 40 20 0
30 25 20 15 10 5 0
20.84 15.54 16.60
20.95
21.13
22.34
Dibuty Adipate
Dibuty Sebacate Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
High Polarity (Short RT)
Figure 1: Polarity scale according to retention times
air from the pigment particles to create a uniform film. This process prevents re-agglomeration through steric stabilization, ensuring the pigment remains finely dispersed. Consequently, medium- polarity esters optimize colour development, enhance emulsion stability, and ensure a smooth, homogeneous application
Wetting ability To indirectly assess the coating efficiency of the ester, its wetting ability was also evaluated. This property was quantified using the Flow Point parameter, which is defined as the minimum amount of ester required to fully wet a specific mass of pigment until the mixture reaches a fluid state (Figure 2). The results obtained were highly positive and
directly comparable to castor oil, the industry benchmark renowned for its exceptional wetting properties. These findings demonstrate that Tripelargonin effectively coats pigment particles, ensuring optimal dispersion and stability within the cosmetic matrix.
Spreading ability The spreadability of the ester was evaluated through a sensory panel test involving 20 volunteers and compared against other commercially available esters. This parameter
% Pigment ■ % Emollient ■ 58.9 56.8 41.1 43.2
6 5 4 3 2 1
0 EMotion Light Castor Oil
Figure 2: Dispersion efficiency of Tripelargonin compared to castor oil, expressed as the pigment-to-ester ratio required to reach the flow point
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE July 2026
Diisosteary Malate
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
EMotion Light
Cyclopentasiloxane
Figure 3: Sensory evaluation and con comparation of Tripelargonin spreadability, based on a score from 0 (low) to 6 (high)
www.personalcaremagazine.com 5.5 4.0 4.1
is critical for pigment coating, as it defines the slip and glide the ester imparts to the pigment particles. Optimized spreadability not only facilitates the incorporation of pigments into the bulk phase, ensuring a more homogeneous distribution, but also significantly enhances the final sensory profile upon application. In this study, the ester achieved a medium
spreadability score, suggesting a balanced performance between controlled application and smooth sensory delivery (Figure 3). In conclusion, the analytical results
demonstrate that the pelargonic acid-derived ester from green chemistry technology serves as a high-performance solution for pigment coating, offering a unique synergy of technical efficiency and sensory refinement. Its medium polarity, as characterized by HPLC, provides the ideal chemical environment to bridge the gap between the pigment surface and the cosmetic matrix. Furthermore, its exceptional wetting ability
(matching the performance of industry-standard castor oil) ensures efficient pigment stabilization and prevents agglomeration. When combined with its balanced spreading profile, the ester provides a significant value-added advantage: it optimizes colour development and manufacturing efficiency while delivering a sophisticated, lightweight skin feel. This makes it an essential ingredient for
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Castor Oil
Medium Polarity (Medium RT)
EMotion Light
1.0
FP (%)
RT (mins)
Score
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