SKIN CARE 23
The skin-restoring potential ofOpuntia cladodes
Morgana Bonina - Bionap
Maintaining skin barrier integrity is a constant challenge in modern life. Daily cleansing routines, frequent use of surfactants-based products and chronic exposure to environmental aggressors can progressively compromise the skin barrier, leading to dryness, impaired functions, microbiome imbalance and increased skin reactivity.1 There is therefore a growing need for
ingredients that can deliver both protective, moisturizing and restoring benefits. In response to consumer demand for effective, sustainable and naturally derived solutions, the cosmetic industry is increasingly looking to botanical sources scientifically grounded and aligned with sustainability values. In this context, Opuntia Biocomplex™ SH, a
powder extract standardised in polysaccharides derived from Opuntia ficus-indica cladodes juice, developed by Bionap of Sicily, Italy, offers a scientifically supported and sustainable solution to address skin barrier needs. Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill., belonging to the
Cactaceae family, is a perennial succulent plant native to Mexico, originally used by indigenous populations as a natural decongestant and anti- inflammatory remedy. Its introduction to Europe dates back to the second half of the sixteenth century, when Spanish explorers imported it from Central and South America. Today, it finds its ideal habitat in the arid,
sun-drenched soils of the Mediterranean basin, particularly in Sicily, where it has become one of the most recognisable elements of the local landscape.2 Indeed, it is characterized by stem segments
known as cladodes, which can reach up to 50cm in width and length. Sicilian farmers have long recognised the skin soothing and healing properties of the cladode gel, traditionally applying it to wounds and dry, irritated skin, a practice that inspired our Sicilian company the development of this Opuntia cladodes extract.3 In Sicilian agricultural tradition, Opuntia cladodes are pruned to increase the prickly pear fruit yield and then discarded as low-value biomass, difficult to manage and dispose of. According to estimates reported by ENEA, the annual pruning of prickly pear cladodes leads to the need to dispose of 130-150 quintals of biomass per hectare.4 However, their inner part is composed of a
complex matrix of polysaccharides, alongside low molecular weight components including mannitol
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and organic acids such as lactic, eucomic and piscidic acids, with promising cosmetic benefits including moisturising, prebiotic and barrier protective properties.5,6 Recognising this potential, our company
developed a process to recover this phytocomplex from cladodes juice, transforming an agricultural co-product into a valuable cosmetic active ingredient, combining sustainability with proven skin benefits. This article presents the results of two clinical
studies evaluating the effects of the Opuntia-ficus indica cladodes extract on skin barrier function and moisturization in both leave-on and rinse-off applications. The leave-on study assessed short- and
long-term effects on skin hydration and surface parameters in a randomised double-blind placebo-controlled trial, while the rinse-off study investigated the ingredient’s ability to protect skin barrier function and mitigate the irritating effect of surfactants. In addition, the microbiome-friendly profile of the ingredient is discussed, based on an in vitro screening of its activity on skin-relevant bacterial strains.
Clinical trial A randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial was conducted on 40 healthy Caucasian female volunteers (phototype III), aged between 35 and 65 years. The active group
applied a leave-on O/W facial cream containing 2% w/w of the Opuntia ficus-indica cladodes extract, while the control group applied the same formulation without the active ingredient. The cream was applied once daily and
instrumental evaluations were performed on the cheek area. Skin hydration was assessed at baseline (T0) and at three time points: one hour (T1h), 15 days (T15d) and 30 days (T30d) after the first application, using the Corneometer® CM825. Skin surface parameters, including skin scaliness and smoothness, were assessed at baseline (T0), one day (T1d), 15 days (T15d) and 30 days (T30d) using the Visioscan®VC 98.
Skin moisturization The corneometric data revealed a clear and progressive moisturization effect in the active group at all the time points. Already one hour after the first application, the Opuntia-ficus indica cladodes extract increased the moisturization by +11.4% compared to the baseline, demonstrating an immediate effect. The most relevant results were recorded at
T15d and T30d, with the active group showing an increase of +25.3% and +24.8% respectively, approximately three times greater than the improvements observed in the placebo group, +7.73% and +8.84% (Figure 1). These findings confirm both an immediate and long-term moisturising effect, maintained throughout the
July 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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