56 MAKEUP REMOVERS
High-performance polyglycerol esters for makeup removers
Yumiko Shibata, Yoshiyuki Matsumoto – Taiyo Kagaku
As the clean beauty movement matures, the cosmetic industry has reached a pivotal turning point. Consumers no longer view “100% plant- derived” or “PEG-free” claims as unique selling points; they are now considered baseline requirements. Today’s sophisticated consumers demand
high-performance products that rival or exceed traditional synthetic benchmarks in both clinical efficacy and sensorial luxury. This shift has placed immense pressure on formulators to innovate within the strict boundaries of naturality and sustainability. One of the most significant shifts in global skin
care is the rise of oil-based makeup removers. While deep-cleansing oils and balms have long been staples in Northern Asian markets, they are now gaining rapid traction globally. This surge is driven by Asian beauty trends that highlight the importance of thorough yet frictionless cleansing. Unlike traditional methods that may require harsh scrubbing, modern oil- based systems are designed to dissolve stubborn makeup and sebum plugs in a single step while preserving the integrity of the skin barrier. However, for formulators, creating a high-
performance natural oil-based makeup remover presents a persistent triple dilemma. ■ Sensorial trade-offs: The inherent difficulty in
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE July 2026
eliminating the greasiness, heavy oily residue, or tacky after-feel common in botanical oils without relying on harsh synthetic surfactants. ■ Formulation stability: The tendency of many natural surfactants to cause cloudiness or sedimentation at low temperatures, compromising aesthetic appeal and posing quality risks such as inconsistent functional performance. ■ Hydration versus efficacy: The risk of stripping essential lipids during cleansing, thereby compromising the skin’s natural moisture- retaining capability. To address these challenges, this article
explores a new paradigm in cleansing design powered by SunSoft™ SCP4-C(MB) (INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/ Sebacate) - hereinafter referred to as SCP4-C. Developed by Taiyo Kagaku, this multifunctional ingredient is COSMOS-approved and verified as readily biodegradable (OECD 301F), ensuring compliance with the most stringent environmental and safety standards. SCP4-C enables the creation of one-step
cleansing formulations—systems that achieve professional-grade removal of stubborn makeup and deep-seated sebum plugs, while ensuring a refreshing rinse-off that leaves absolutely no oily residue. By merging superior cleansing power with instantaneous emulsification, these formulations
eliminate the need for secondary facial cleansers (double cleansing), thereby streamlining the routine and preserving the skin’s natural moisture. Leveraging this technology, we introduce
three iconic textures: a minimalist oil, a luxurious melting balm, and a sophisticated double- transformation cream utilizing polyglycerol fatty acid esters (PGFEs).
The science of interfacial excellence: Gemini design 1. Thermodynamic efficiency of Gemini-like structures The superior performance of the specialized PGFE, SCP4-C, is rooted in its distinctive molecular architecture. Unlike conventional monomeric surfactants, SCP4-C is designed with a ‘Gemini-like’ structure, featuring a tetrameric polyglycerol backbone cross-linked with sebacic acid. In surfactant science, Gemini surfactants
(dimeric surfactants) consist of two hydrophilic head groups and two hydrophobic chains linked by a spacer at or near the head groups. This architecture provides superior surface activity compared to single-chain counterparts. This unique structural arrangement significantly
reduces the repulsion between the head groups, allowing the molecules to pack much more tightly
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72
