34 MARINE INGREDIENTS Control Retinol (20µm) Water - Propanedoil -
Macrocystis pyrifera (Kelp) extract (0.005%)
Classical Macrocystis pyrifera extract (0.005%)
Figure 1: Illustration of collagen I synthesis in fibroblasts (collagen I: in green, nucleus: in blue)
structural impact of a high-potency molecule but require a solution that respects the skin’s homeostatic balance and natural physiology. Advanced blue biotechnology provides an answer to this paradox. By utilizing bio-inspired engineering, it is possible to reveal active signatures that support the skin architecture and global appearance while offering a better fit for the skin’s natural biological systems. The objective is to provide results on a par with industry benchmarks by reinforcing the skin’s internal support systems, ensuring a sustained and comfortable improvement in skin quality.
Biological context: The erosion of skin architecture To effectively reinforce the skin, the mechanisms of its erosion must first be understood. Skin ageing is a multifactorial process,4 impact of the exposome,5
where the cumulative including UV radiation,
pollution, and internal metabolic stress, disrupts the delicate organization of the extracellular matrix (ECM). This matrix is the complex scaffold of proteins, such as collagen and elastin, and polysaccharides, like hyaluronic acid, which provides the skin with its essential mechanical properties: firmness, tonicity, and resilience. A critical driver of this erosion is the presence
of senescent cells. These cells cease to divide but remain metabolically active, developing a highly active secretome known as the senescence- associated secretory phenotype (SASP).6
These
secretions contribute to a persistent state of low- grade stress, often referred to as inflammaging,7 which stimulates the overproduction of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). These enzymes are responsible for the enzymatic breakdown of the structural fibres within the dermis. The degradation of collagen I, which
represents the majority of the dermal dry weight, is particularly detrimental to the skin’s architecture. As the ECM loses its density, the fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing these structural fibres, lose their mechanical tension. This creates a downward spiral where the cells produce even less collagen, further weakening the scaffold.8 In mature skin, the production and remodeling
of this dermal architecture become progressively less efficient. The foundational qualities of the
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE July 2026 4 3 2 1 0
skin begin to erode, resulting in a visible loss of tonicity, increased roughness, and an overall tired skin appearance. This biological impasse requires a targeted solution: molecules capable of restarting the skin’s internal support programs to restore its structural integrity and architecture.
Celebrity blue biotechnology: Capturing rare marine biomass The search for effective architectural reinforcement leads researchers to the ocean, the world’s most significant reservoir of biological diversity. However, high-potency marine molecules are often inaccessible through traditional harvesting because seaweed composition varies wildly in the wild. The specialized blue biotechnology acts as the
bridge between this potential and the industrial requirement for precision. This biotechnology specializes in the culture of rare and small macroalgae forms. It targets specific biological resources that are difficult to access in nature, such as: ■ Ephemeral life stages: Certain macroalgae possess microscopic stages that only appear for a few weeks a year, such as the gametophyte stage of Undaria pinnatifida or Macrocystis pyrifera.
5 +45%*** vs control
■ Low-abundance species: Other organisms are naturally rare or small in size, such as Acrochaetium moniliforme, making traditional collection inconsistent or impossible. By mastering the culture of these rare
biological forms, Celebrity biotechnology provides a consistent and high-quality biomass. This approach ensures total supply chain sovereignty and eliminates the need for repeated extraction from the wild, providing long-term security of supply for formulators through sustainable and ethical sourcing.
Precision engineering: The signature of the marine active The transition from a rare marine resource to a high-performance active ingredient is a process of precision engineering. Among marine flora, the giant kelp, Macrocystis pyrifera, is an extraordinary organism, capable of growing up to 60 metres in length and thriving in challenging environments. While the macroscopic, mature form of
this seaweed is commonly used in cosmetics, its most potent potential is hidden within its microscopic and rare gametophyte stage. In the wild, these rare forms are virtually invisible and
+84%** vs control
(untreated) Control
Retinol
Water - Propanediol - Macrocystis pyrifera (Kelp) extract
Figure 2: Hyaluronic acid production by keratinocytes. ** p<0.01, *** p<0.001
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Hyaluronic Acid (Arbitrary Unit)
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