COLOUR COSMETICS 27
Colour cosmetic pigments: the present and the future
Claudia Lattanzio, Stefania Zanzottera - Roelmi HPC
In the modern colour cosmetics world, pigment technology plays a central role not only in defining the final shade and visual impact of a finished product, but also in determining its manufacturability, stability, and sensorial performance. The global cosmetic pigments market is experiencing a period of robust expansion, currently valued at approximately $2.2 to $2.5 billion as of 2024-2025. Projections indicate a strong upward trajectory, with the market expected to exceed $5 billion by 2032, driven by a CAGR (compounded annual growth rate) of 7.4% to 8.2%. This growth is primarily fuelled by the increasing demand for high- performance, multifunctional products.1
Idea & development Among the most advanced pigment solutions available today, Roelmi HPC introduces two innovative product lines: ColorGLAM® ester-coated pigments, and ColorEST®
ABSTRACT
This article presents an alternative and forward-looking approach to colour cosmetics and pigment ingredients, addressing both performance and sustainability. By leveraging eco-designed emollients of EU origin, a new generation of coated and dispersed pigments has been developed, combining enhanced sensory properties with improved formulation stability. The preliminary data presented highlight the strong potential of this technology to meet evolving market expectations and to serve as a solid foundation for future industrial development and scalable innovation
From an optical standpoint, these technologies
, featuring , based
on pigments suspended in esters. These highly functional ingredient platforms are designed to effectively address both formulation challenges and evolving consumer expectations in modern colour cosmetics. Ingredients are defined by a commitment
to safety and rigorous quality standards. Each product undergoes a comprehensive safety assessment and is guaranteed to be free from CMR substances in strict accordance with EU classifications. Furthermore, the company ensures full compliance with REACH regulatory requirements. To guarantee performance and purity, high-precision particle size control during the pre-production stage, alongside systematic monitoring of heavy metal content and microbiological quality are implemented. Pigment dispersions in esters consist of
carefully selected pigments pre-dispersed in a liquid ester medium, offering ready-to- use systems that significantly streamline the formulation process. Conversely, ester-coated pigments feature a physically modified surface through the application of an ester layer, which enhances their compatibility with lipidic phases and elevates their overall performance. Although distinct in structure, these two
technologies share a common objective: to optimize pigment behaviour throughout the entire product lifecycle, from R&D development to the final cosmetic application. From a formulation development perspective, these pigment technologies offer substantial advantages.
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allow for precise control of opacity, transparency, and gloss, depending on the formulation design and pigment selection. The result is a more refined visual appearance on the skin, with colours that appear cleaner, more vibrant, and more consistent under different lighting conditions. Furthermore, the incorporation of esters
Dispersed pigments in esters dramatically
reduce the need for high-shear milling or prolonged dispersion steps, minimizing processing time and energy consumption while ensuring excellent batch-to-batch reproducibility. The pigments are already fully wetted and stabilized within the ester medium, which translates into easier incorporation, faster scale-up, and reduced risk of agglomeration or colour inconsistency. Coated pigments, on the other hand, exhibit
enhanced wettability and affinity for oil phases, allowing formulators to achieve homogeneous dispersions more efficiently compared to untreated pigments. In finished cosmetic products, the benefits are
equally significant. Both dispersions and coated pigments contribute to improve colour strength, uniformity, and stability over time. The ester interface enhances pigment distribution within the formulation, leading to more even colour pay-off and reduced risk of flocculation or migration.
significantly enhances sensorial properties. Formulations benefit from a smoother application, improved spreadability, and a lighter, more comfortable skin feel. These attributes are particularly valuable in modern makeup products—such as foundations, concealers, and lip and eye applications where consumer expectations extend beyond colour to include texture, comfort, and wear performance
Added value – the choice of esters The inner added value of the pigment dispersions and ester-coated pigments lies not only in their technical performance, but also in the selection of highly distinctive and responsible ester oils. This strategic choice allows developing colour cosmetics ingredients that combine formulation efficiency, superior aesthetics, and a strong sustainability profile. The esters chosen are already present in
Roelmi HPC’s portfolio as part of its emollients range. They fully match the sustainability-driven approach of the company based on scientific method for environmental preservation. Extensive research has been conducted
to profile the specific esters used in pigment treatments, defining their physicochemical properties and their subsequent behaviour
July 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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