FORMULATING


series (301B, 301D and 301F) is used to establish if a material is readily biodegradable, the 302 test is for inherent biodegradability, 306 is for the degradation in seawater and 310 is a sealed vessel test, which also allows for the monitoring of inorganic carbon produced from the degradation process.


Measuring what matters: simple test methods The most helpful outputs are the ones that link numbers to sensation: an evaporation curve alone is useful, but combining it with panel language gives your team a common yardstick.


Linear paraffinic emollients: a case study on cyclic silicone alternatives Within volatile and semivolatile hydrocarbons, high purity linear paraffinic emollients are particularly effective at recreating silicone-like sensory behaviour. All CasEmol grades are single chain, fully biodegradable, colourless and low odour, offering a full palette of textures for a range of formulation needs. These materials can be from mineral sources or from upcycled plant oils.


C12 & C14 (Dodecane and Tetradecane) Ultra-light, fast-drying, clean after-feel; strong choices where D5 or cyclomethicone were historically used (primers, light lotions, sprays). These two grades are liquid at room temperature and are therefore suitable for cold process formulations. Melting point range: -10 to +6°C.


C16 & C17 (Hexadecane and Heptadecane) Balanced slip and cushion; well-suited to leave-on skin care, hair serums and sun care where a controlled, non-greasy finish is essential. Melting point range: 18-21°C.


C18 & C22 (Octadecane and Docosane) Richer, longer-lasting textures for barrier creams, balms/sticks, lip products and long-wear formats. Melting point range: 28-44°C. During a single-blind panel study it was found that C17 (heptadecane) had a comparable texture


Panel ratings comparing D5 and C17 (3wt%) in a serum base formulation


Spreadability Silky


5.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0


C17 ■ D5 ■


53


Moisturised


Soft


profile to that of D5. Comments made by the participants on the similarities included the ease of spreadability of both formulations and the silky after feel. The richness and longer playtime of the formulation containing C17 was also highlighted by panellists, with many preferring the more substantial feeling. Two participants also commented on the


slight cooling effect of the formulations. With the formulation containing D5 this was due to consistent evaporation of the material; in the formulation containing C17, this was due to the absorption of heat from the body to facilitate melting and evaporation. The panel had 16 participants, both male


and female, aged 25-55 years old. The base formulation was a lightweight emulsion dosed


Rich Figure 3: Panel ratings (0-5) of serum base formulations containing D5 and C17


with 3 wt% of either C17 or D5. C17 was chosen to highlight the similarities of the cyclic silicone alternative, despite the slightly longer chain length. For a shorter playtime and lighter texture, C12 or C14 would be recommended. A hydrating hair spray was also tested on dark


brown, virgin blonde and bleached blonde hair, to compare shine and smoothing ability. Two sprays of each formulation, containing 5 wt% C16 (hexadecane) or D5, were applied to the dry hair tresses before being combed through ten times, using a Dupont Delrin® acetal polymer comb (black diamond No 100, fine tooth spacing). Both formulations showed good combability on each hair type, with the formulation containing D5 being slightly slicker. Initial images (shown in Figure 4) show comparable shine and smoothness


Figure 4: Initial images of hair tresses dosed with hydrating hair spray www.personalcaremagazine.com


Figure 5: Images of hair tresses taken approximately two hours after dosing with hydrating hair spray


July 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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