40 SUN CARE
resistance, and stable UV filter distribution, all of which depend heavily on the choice of emollients, dispersants, and structuring agents. Together, these evolving expectations
are reshaping the technical landscape of sun care formulation. They highlight the need for multifunctional ingredients that can support high SPF performance, enhance sensoriality, simplify formulation design, and align with sustainability goals.
The role of next-generation emollients To meet these rising expectations, formulators are increasingly turning to next generation emollients that offer a combination of sensorial refinement, film forming strength, and compatibility with a wide range of UV filters. Traditional emollients often excel in one area
but fall short in others. For example, providing good spreadability but lacking stability, or offering strong film formation but feeling heavy on the skin. Modern sun care requires ingredients that can deliver multiple benefits simultaneously. Multibranched molecular structures are one
example of how ingredient design is evolving. These architectures can create emollients that feel light and elegant on the skin while still providing the structural integrity needed for high performance sunscreens. Their branched nature reduces crystallization
tendencies, allowing them to remain liquid at room temperature even when composed of long carbon chains. This liquid state is particularly valuable for cold process manufacturing, which reduces energy consumption and enables the incorporation of heat sensitive actives. High saturation levels in these materials
contribute to excellent oxidative stability, ensuring that the emollient remains stable over time and under UV exposure. This is especially important in sun care, where ingredients are routinely exposed to heat and light. Additionally, a high refractive index can
enhance optical clarity and impart a subtle glow to the skin, improving the aesthetic appeal of both transparent and tinted formulations. These nextgeneration emollients behave similarly to high performance synthetics while maintaining a natural origin profile, making them attractive for brands seeking to increase naturality without compromising performance. Their multifunctionality allows formulators to
reduce the number of ingredients in a formula, simplify production processes, and create more streamlined, consumer friendly products.
Addressing the challenges of mineral UV filters Mineral UV filters such as titanium dioxide (TiO2
mineral filters often cause whitening, streaking, and a heavy skin feel, all of which negatively impact consumer acceptance. Efficient dispersion is therefore critical for
achieving both high protection and a pleasant sensory experience. Emollients that can effectively wet, separate, and stabilize mineral particles play a key role in improving the performance of mineral sunscreens. When mineral filters are well dispersed, they form smaller, more uniform clusters that create smoother, more continuous films on the skin. This reduces white cast, enhances coverage, and improves the overall appearance of the product. Microscopic analysis often reveals that
) and zinc oxide (ZnO) are valued for their
broadspectrum protection and photostability. However, they present significant formulation challenges due to their physical properties. Their high density leads to sedimentation,
especially in liquid formats, while their tendency to agglomerate can result in uneven coverage and reduced SPF performance. Poorly dispersed
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE July 2026
optimized dispersants produce tighter particle size distributions and more stable suspensions. These improvements are particularly important in high load systems such as sunscreen sticks, where mineral filters may be present at concentrations of 20–50%. In such formats, stable suspension is essential to prevent sedimentation and ensure consistent protection throughout the product’s lifespan. Sunscreen sticks have grown in popularity due
to their portability, precision, and water resistant performance. They are especially favoured for facial application, sports activities, and on the go
reapplication. However, their high mineral content makes them challenging to formulate. Emollients that can maintain low viscosity, stable flow behaviour, and strong suspension stability are therefore invaluable in creating sticks that glide smoothly, deliver even payoff, and provide reliable protection.
Enhancing the performance of organic UV filters Organic UV filters offer flexibility in formulation design and are widely used in high SPF products. However, their performance depends heavily on solubility, distribution, and film formation. Poorly solubilized filters can crystallize or migrate within the formula, leading to reduced SPF values and compromised stability. Certain emollients can significantly enhance
the performance of organic UV filters by improving their solubilization and promoting more uniform spatial distribution within the emulsion. When filters are evenly dispersed, they absorb UV radiation more efficiently, resulting in higher SPF values. Even small additions of the right emollient can lead to measurable increases in SPF, allowing formulators to reduce total UV filter load or achieve higher protection with existing filter systems.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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