30 COLOUR COSMETICS
standard for pigment dispersions. This enhanced wetting capability reflects its high efficiency in air displacement and particle surface coverage. Consequently, it ensures an optimal degree of
dispersion, enabling high pigment loads without compromising system stability or viscosity. These results highlight its potential to create highly concentrated colour bases characterized by reduced viscosity and improved homogeneity. The true competitive advantage of this
upcycled ester lies in its ability to harmonize technical excellence with ethical innovation. Its upcycled origin transforms these high- performance attributes into a sustainable solution, allowing brands to deliver premium, professional- grade dispersions within a circular economy framework.
Morphological and characterization studies for ester-coated pigments To evaluate the effectiveness of the coating processes, several particle characterization studies were conducted, including BET (Brunauer- Emmett-Teller) surface area analysis and SEM (Scanning Electron Microscopy). Reported below are the evaluations performed on black oxide, used as an example.
Figure 8: ColorGLAM
BET results The BET Method is a standardized analytical technique used to determine the specific surface area (SSA) of solid materials by measuring the physical adsorption of a gas (usually nitrogen) onto the surface at cryogenic temperatures. It is based on the theory of multi-layer gas adsorption, which calculates the amount of gas needed to cover the entire external and internal (pore) surface of a particle. An uncoated pigment often has a high surface
area due to its inherent roughness, cracks, or pores. A successful coating fills these micro pores and smooths out the topography, which mathematically results in a lower measurable surface area. If the coating successfully encapsulates the
pigment particles, it reduces the total accessible surface for nitrogen molecules. Therefore, a drop in BET values as reported in
the Table 1 serves as quantitative proof that the coating layer is present and continuous.
SEM analysis Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) analysis
Ester-coated pigments
played a vital role in evaluating particle morphology and assessing the overall impact of the coating process. It was essential to ensure that no substantial changes in particle shape occurred, as any morphological alteration could negatively affect colour yield and light reflectance. The SEM images (Figure 7 and Figure 8)
reported below confirm that the particles remain morphologically similar to their initial state, demonstrating that the process provides an effective coating without compromising the original shape or colour properties.
Technical performance in formula of ester-coated pigments® To evaluate the formulation’s coating effectiveness and the improved affinity with the lipophilic phase, comparative studies were conducted. Pure pigments and ester-coated ones were
tested using identical formulations, quantities, and processes. Evaluations were performed on a lipstick (a fully anhydrous base, Figure 9 and 10) and a foundation (a water-in-oil emulsion, Figure 11 and 12).
Untreated pure pigments
TABLE 1: COMPARISON BETWEEN BET VALUES OF PURE PIGMENT AND ESTER-COATED PIGMENTS
BET Values Pure pigment
Black Oxide
6.7928 m2 ColourGLAM % Variations /g 2.7928 m2 /g -57.4%
Both samples underwent identical processing via high-shear homogenization (turbo-emulsifier) for 5 minutes. The ester-coated pigments formulation exhibits significantly superior colour yield and homogeneity. These results confirm the effectiveness of the coating and the ability of Tripelargonin to interface with the oily phase, ensuring enhanced stability and a substantial improvement in colour consistency. Application tests were conducted to evaluate
the homogeneity and evenness of the lipstick on the skin. The results show that the coating significantly improves the glide and spreadability of the formula. Consequently, the tested lipstick exhibits a more consistent colour lay-down compared to the untreated pigment version, which appears streaky and uneven Both samples underwent identical processing via high-shear homogenization (turbo-emulsifier) for ten minutes. Ester-coated pigments formulation exhibits significantly superior colour yield and homogeneity. These results confirm the effectiveness of the coating and the ability of Tripelargonin to interface with the oily phase, ensuring enhanced stability and a substantial improvement in colour consistency.
Figure 9: Comparison between a lipstick formulated with ester-coated pigments (left) and one formulated with untreated pure pigments (right)
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE July 2026
Conclusion In conclusion, the presented pigment technologies (coated pigments and dispersions) may represent a distinguished value-added solution for the
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Figure 7: SEM image of pure black pigment
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72
