MARINE INGREDIENTS 33


Precision-engineered active to challenge retinol


Claire Liu, Cécile Bize, Erwan Le Gélébart – Seppic


The global cosmetic industry is undergoing a structural transition toward high-performance models driven by a sophisticated understanding of biological systems and an increasing consumer demand for ‘hero ingredient’ level efficacy. Today’s consumers are increasingly educated, prioritizing scientific evidence and specific active molecules over broad general claims. However, achieving consistent potency and a sustainable footprint while meeting these high efficacy expectations remains a significant challenge for formulators. Seppic’s Celebrity™ blue biotechnology


provides a solution by unlocking rare and small algae to reveal unique phytochemical signatures. Through the development of Macro’Age™ (INCI: Water - Propanediol - Macrocystis pyrifera (Kelp) extract) – hereafter, the kelp-derived active - a precision-engineered marine ingredient, it is now possible to reinforce skin architecture and deliver a global skin appearance improvement. Extensive benchmarking against industry


standards such as retinol and bakuchiol demonstrates how biotechnology addresses modern dermal needs, ensuring long-term tissue resilience and structural health.


The performance mandate: The rise of hero ingredients The narrative of the cosmetic industry has evolved significantly over the past decade, moving away


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from simple reactive correction toward a more proactive, science-driven approach to skin health. This shift is propelled by a new consumer culture centred on hero Ingredients. Modern consumers, often described as ‘skintellectuals’, no longer simply buy a brand; they seek out specific molecules with established reputations for safety and efficacy. Market research indicates that the main


ingredient is now the primary factor consumers consider when researching beauty products, cited by 58% of respondents, even before the intended benefits.1


This trend is particularly dominant


among Millennials and Gen X, who actively verify the effectiveness of their skin care through independent research. This rising awareness is fuelled by a desire for


transparency and proof. Familiarity is a powerful driver of trust: 70% of today’s skin care buyers in the US look for a combination of the latest trendy ingredients and tried-and-true heroes that have maintained popularity for decades, such as retinol, vitamin C, or hyaluronic acid.2 In this competitive landscape, providing


clinical evidence against these established benchmarks represents a significant asset for any new active ingredient. It allows for a clearer demonstration of an ingredient’s performance, offering a decisive competitive advantage when results match or exceed those of well-known standards. This demand for performance is


driving the industry toward blue biotechnology as a means to unlock resources that nature alone cannot provide consistently at an industrial scale. The goal is to ensure that the next generation of active ingredients is both high-performing and sustainably sourced, meeting the dual demand for scientific rigour and environmental transparency.


The hero paradox: Matching potency with skin respect The modern consumer’s prioritization of efficacy creates a unique challenge for formulators. While the demand for high performance is absolute, every new active ingredient is inevitably compared to established benchmarks. Traditional heroes like retinol are undeniably powerful in stimulating protein synthesis and epidermal renewal, but their use often involves a documented biological trade-off.


The application of retinoids is frequently


associated with retinization symptoms, which can include potential skin sensitivity, localized redness, or irritation, particularly for consumers with a compromised skin barrier.3


According to


consumer surveys, safety and the avoidance of health risks are major concerns, with 41% of US respondents and 19% of UK respondents expressing worry about certain ingredient-related sensitivities.2 This creates a paradox: consumers desire the


July 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


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