PEPTIDES 45 A 4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
Collagen content B
10.5 9
7.5 6
4.5 3
1.5 0
Elastin content *
C
105 90 75 60 45 30 15 0
Extracellular matrix fibres ****
Figure 1: Soluble collagen content (A), elastin content (B) and extracellular matrix fibre area (C) in human skin explants under healthy, aged and treatment conditions following topical application of the encapsulated EGF delivery system or non-encapsulated EGF. Data are presented as mean ± SD (n = 4). *p < 0.05, **p < 0.01 and ***p < 0.001
Collagen fibres account for approximately
70–80% of the dry weight of the dermis and are primarily responsible for tensile strength and structural support. Elastin fibres, in contrast, provide elasticity and recoil capacity, allowing the skin to recover its original shape after repeated deformation. Together, these structural networks maintain tissue flexibility, resistance and mechanical integrity throughout life.12 Contrary to what may be expected for a
structural element, the extracellular matrix is not static. Dermal architecture undergoes continuous remodelling through tightly regulated processes involving matrix synthesis, fibre organization, controlled degradation and structural renewal. Fibroblasts play a central role in this dynamic equilibrium by producing extracellular matrix components while simultaneously regulating enzymes involved in matrix turnover and tissue adaptation.
Among these enzymes, matrix
metalloproteinases (MMPs) participate actively in extracellular matrix remodelling by degrading fragmented or damaged matrix components as part of normal tissue renewal dynamics. Under physiological conditions, MMP activity remains tightly regulated to preserve the balance between matrix degradation and structural renewal. Because of its central role in skin mechanical
performance and tissue remodelling, the extracellular matrix has become a major target in modern cosmetic science.13
However, ageing-
associated alterations in these regulatory mechanisms progressively contribute to extracellular matrix disorganization and loss of dermal mechanical functionality.13 Because of its central role in skin mechanical
performance and tissue remodelling, the extracellular matrix has become a major target in modern cosmetic science.13
Epidermal growth factor and ECM remodelling
Among the signalling molecules involved in extracellular matrix regulation, EGF is considered one of the most extensively studied growth factors in skin biology due to its role in tissue renewal, fibroblast activity and dermal remodelling processes. EGF is a small polypeptide that interacts
with the epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR), a transmembrane receptor expressed
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by keratinocytes, fibroblasts and other skin- associated cells. Activation of this pathway regulates multiple biological functions involved in tissue maintenance, including cell proliferation, migration, survival and extracellular matrix organization.14 At the molecular level, EGF signalling has been
associated with the regulation of genes involved in collagen synthesis and matrix assembly, including COL1A1, which encodes type I collagen.15 EGF also influences proteins involved in dermal organization and fibre architecture, such as fibronectin and fibrillin, both of which contribute to extracellular matrix stability and elastic fibre functionality.16 Beyond its direct effects on extracellular matrix-associated proteins, EGF also influences fibroblast behaviour and tissue interaction dynamics. EGFR activation promotes fibroblast migration and cellular interaction with collagen- rich environments, processes that are essential
Healthy
for maintaining efficient tissue remodelling and structural adaptation over time.17 During chronoageing, however, these signalling
dynamics progressively deteriorate. Several studies have reported reduced EGFR expression together with lower responsiveness to EGF in aged fibroblasts and dermal progenitor cells. As a consequence, fibroblasts progressively exhibit lower migratory capacity, impaired matrix production and reduced remodelling efficiency.2 This decline occurs within an already
fragmented and mechanically altered extracellular matrix environment. Changes in collagen organization and altered mechano-transduction progressively compromise fibroblast functionality, contributing to a self-perpetuating cycle of impaired matrix renewal, reduced elasticity and lower tissue adaptability.5 Over time, chronoaged skin progressively
loses its capacity to maintain extracellular matrix coherence, structural resilience and efficient
Aged
EGF-Delivery System
EGF-Non encapsulated
Figure 2: Masson’s trichrome-stained histological sections of healthy skin (A), aged skin (B), aged skin treated with the encapsulated EGF delivery system (C) and aged skin treated with non-encapsulated EGF (D). Magnification: 20×
July 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
µg/tissue mg
µg/tissue mg
µg/tissue mg
Healthy Aged
Delivery system
EGF- encapsulated EGF-
Healthy Aged
Delivery system
EGF- encapsulated EGF-
Healthy Aged
Delivery system
EGF- encapsulated EGF-
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