58 MAKEUP REMOVERS A defining feature of the following three
formulations is their ‘one-step’ efficiency. By ensuring a complete phase inversion during rinsing, they eliminate the need for secondary cleansing (double cleansing), preserving the skin’s natural moisture barrier. Furthermore, each formulation achieves a Natural Origin Index of 1.0 (ISO 16128), harmonizing professional-grade efficacy with the strictest standards of naturality.
One-step pore care VCO003C (Table 1) represents a minimalist yet high-performance system designed for consumers seeking purity and efficiency (Table 1). As a foundational ‘oil-to-milk’ formula, its simplicity belies its technical sophistication. Stability at low temperatures is a frequent hurdle
for botanical-rich formulations. A comparative study between VCO003C and a conventional PGFE- based formulation (Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate 10%, Oil 90%) was conducted. While both appeared clear at room
temperature, the conventional system exhibited significant sedimentation after storage at 5°C for three weeks (Figure 4). SCP4-C successfully stabilizes the oil matrix, ensuring consistent performance. Beyond stability, VCO003C excels in one-step
pore care. Due to the dispersion effect derived from the surfactant system, the oil is able to penetrate deeply into the follicular openings. To quantify this, we conducted an evaluation using artificial sebum plugs5
,which are embedded in
embossed synthetic leather (Figure 5). After a standardized massage (60 strokes at 25°C), image analysis via ImageJ revealed a 77.3% removal rate. This demonstrates that the formulation does not merely wash the surface; it actively dislodges stubborn keratotic plugs, providing a ‘pore-vacuuming’ effect that is a powerful marketing claim for deep-cleansing. Furthermore, the technical versatility of
SCP4-C offers the potential to be adapted for ‘in- shower’ functionality. This feature is particularly essential in markets such as Japan, where the cultural habit of removing makeup in the shower or bathroom necessitates high efficacy under wet or humid conditions. In conventional systems, moisture often
triggers premature emulsification, causing the oil phase to lose its dissolving capacity. However, because SCP4-C possesses a double-chain structure with flexible, high-fluidity hydrophobic chains, it provides the technical foundation to form a bicontinuous structure upon contact with moisture.
This stable, interconnected phase prevents
premature emulsification, allowing the oil to continue dissolving hydrophobic impurities before the final rinse. While the formulations featured in this article focus on professional one-step efficacy, the ability to engineer such bicontinuous systems further demonstrates the wide-ranging adaptability of SCP4-C for diverse consumer needs.
Luxury massage ritual Building on the robust backbone of the VCO003C oil system, TCB006C (Table 2) is engineered as a
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE July 2026 5 6 7 Butylene Glycol Purified Water Preservative Butylene Glycol Water Humectant Base Preservative 5.0
Up to 100
q.s.
Table 3: Formulation #TCC003C Pure Iconic Satin Cleansing Cream. Sensory path: cream → oil → milk. Technical Path: High Internal Phase Emulsion (HIPE) O/W→ W/O→ O/W. Preparation: The water phase (5-7) is heated to 80°C. Separately, the oil phase (1-4) is heated and dissolved at 85°C. The oil phase is then added to the water phase, followed by homogenization at 6,000 rpm for five minutes. The mixture is then cooled to 35°C under stirring
www.personalcaremagazine.com 100 80 60 40 20 0 0 2 4 Time (hours)
Figure 3: Weight change of 50% aqueous surfactant solutions over eight hours (36°C/20% RH). SCP4-C demonstrates humectant-like moisture retention, preventing the “stripping” sensation common in synthetic surfactants
TABLE 2 Phase
1 2 3 Ingredient SunSoft SCP4-C(MB)
SunSoft Q-17D-C(MB)
INCI Name
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 4 Olive Fruit Oil 5 6 7 Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil Dextrin Palmitate Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax Behenyl Behenate Function
Emulsifier / Cleansing
Emulsifier / Cleansing
Base Base
Viscosity Controller
Viscosity Controller
Viscosity Controller
% 3.5 6.5 38.0 39.0 2.0 5.5 5.5
Table 2: Formulation #TCB006C Pure Iconic Melting Cleansing Balm. Sensory path: Balm → oil → milk. Technical path: Structured crystal network → reverse micellar solution → fine O/W emulsion. Preparation: All ingredients (1-7) are heated and dissolve at 80-90°C, filled into containers, and left to stand until completely cooled
TABLE 3 Phase
1 2 3 4 Ingredient SUNSOFT SCP4-C(MB) SUNSOFT Q-182S-C(MB) TAISET 50-C(MB) INCI Name
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate
Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate, Glyceryl Behenate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Function
Emulsifier / Cleansing
Emulsifier
Emulsion Stabilizer
Base % 2.0 5.0 2.0 66.5 6 8 SCP4-C ■ Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate ■ PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate ■
Water Retention Rate (%)
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