24 SKIN CARE entire 30-day study period. Opuntia Biocomplex SH ■ Placebo ■
Skin surface parameters Beyond hydration, the ingredient delivered measurable improvements in skin texture. In terms of scaliness (SEsc), the Opuntia-ficus indica cladodes extract induced a significant reduction from day 15 onwards, reaching -18.7% (T15d) and -18.6% (T30d) versus baseline, compared to -4.9% (T15d) and -12.2% (T30d) in the placebo group, where significance was reached only at T30d. Skin smoothness (SEsm) showed the most interesting results. While the placebo group showed minimal
improvement throughout the study, the active group had a progressive increase of +7.3% at T15d and +10.8% at T30d (Figure 2). These results suggest that the observed effects reflect the specific ability of the Opuntia ficus-indica cladodes extract to enhance skin hydration, counteract superficial flaking and dryness, and deliver a significant and lasting improvement in skin smoothness.
Skin barrier protection in a rinse-off formula A pilot in vivo study was performed to evaluate the capability of the active ingredient to protect skin from the potential irritating effect of a rinse- off formulation. The study was conducted on 8 healthy male and female volunteers aged between 18 and 60 years. Two body wash formulations were tested:
an active formula containing 2% of the Opuntia ficus-indica cladodes extract and a placebo formula with identical composition but without the active ingredient, comparing both of them to an untreated area. Products were applied to the right and left volar forearms and measurements were recorded at baseline (T0), 30 minutes (T30) and 90 minutes (T90) after washing. Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) was
measured using the Tewameter® TM300 and the erythema index with the Mexameter® MX18.
1. TEWL TEWL measurements highlighted a clear difference between the active and placebo formulas. The placebo formula induced a progressive and statistically significant increase in TEWL of +4.67%
A 0
-2 -4 -6 -8
-10 -12 -14 -16 -18 -20
30 25 20 15 10 5 0
1h
15d Time
Figure 1: Corneometric measurement: percentage change in skin hydration in subjects treated with the Opuntia ficus-indica cladodes extract (2% w/w) compared to placebo at one hour, 15 and 30 days
at T30 and +9.35% at T90, reflecting the disruptive effect of surfactants on skin barrier integrity. In contrast, the active formula containing the
Opuntia ficus-indica cladodes extract showed only a transient and non-significant increase of +0.93% at T30, followed by a statistically significant decrease of -0.94% at T90. These data point out the capability of the
active botanical ingredient to protect the skin from components that can alter its integrity, bringing back and strengthening its barrier function (Figure 3).
2. Erythema index Both formulas reduced the erythema index compared to the untreated area, with the active formula showing a slightly lower increase versus baseline (+0.14% at T30; +3.81% at T90) compared to the placebo (+1.28% at T30; +5.32% at T90) (Figure 4). However, the lack of statistically difference
between the two groups suggest that the primary activity of the ingredient is not a direct soothing effect, but rather an indirect consequence of its barrier-protective properties.
Microbiome-friendly profile Beyond its hydrating and barrier-protective properties, the Opuntia ficus-indica cladodes extract has also demonstrated a microbiome-
Percentage of reduction of SEsc (skin scaliness) Opuntia Biocomplex SH ■ Placebo ■
12 10 8 6 4 2 0
24h 15 days 30 days -2 T24 H T15 DD T30 DD
Figure 2: Visioscan ® parameters: percentage variation of SEsc (scaliness) (A) and SEsm (Skin smoothness); and (B) of skin treated with 2% Opuntia ficus- indica cladodes extract (2% w/w) compared to placebo at 24 h, 15 and 30 days
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE July 2026
www.personalcaremagazine.com B
friendly profile, an increasingly valued characteristic in modern cosmetic formulation. The skin is colonised by a diverse community of microorganisms, collectively known as skin microbiota, which plays a crucial role in maintaining barrier integrity, regulating immune responses and protecting against external aggressors.7 Disruptions in microbial balance, such as a
loss of commensal bacteria or an overgrowth of potentially harmful strains, could lead to chronic inflammatory skin conditions including acne, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. In this context, ingredients capable of selectively promoting beneficial bacteria while controlling harmful ones represent a valuable tool for formulators developing microbiome-friendly skin care products.8 An in vitro study was conducted to assess
the ability of the Opuntia ficus-indica cladodes extract to modulate the growth of skin-relevant bacterial strains, S. epidermidis, S. aureus, C. acnes and L. pentosus, at three concentrations (2%, 2.5% and 3%). Bacterial growth and viability were evaluated and compared against a prebiotic positive control (glucose 2%) and an antimicrobial positive control (chlorhexidine 1%). Results demonstrated a significant and
concentration-dependent prebiotic effect on S. Percentage of increase of SEsm (skin smoothness) Opuntia Biocomplex SH ■ Placebo ■
30d
Change from baseline (%)
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