52 FORMULATING


simply requires following the right playbook. If you choose the right linear alkane chain length and volatility deliberately, you can reconstruct the feel map consumers expect, while keeping the regulatory outlook simpler.


Emerging approaches to silicone free sensory performance Several chemically organic emollient classes are now demonstrating strong potential to rebuild silicone like sensorial profiles: ■ Light linear paraffinic emollients that mimic volatility and slip ■ Branched hydrocarbons offering extended playtime and improved spread ■ Ester systems that deliver softness and glide with flexibility across formats Both cyclic silicones and hydrocarbons are


hydrophobic in nature, meaning they form good occlusive barriers on both the skin and hair, locking in moisture and sealing cuticles. Hydrocarbon based materials can have slightly


higher surface tension than cyclosiloxanes, due to their packing and stronger intermolecular London dispersion forces. This requires more energy to disrupt the intermolecular interactions, which heavily influences volatility, initial break and product playtime. With their stepwise increase in chain length,


linear paraffinic emollients are a great choice when wanting to replace silicones in a range of different formats, from lightweight hair mists to rich body butters. Increasing the chain length also increases the melting point, without risk of losing material at higher processing temperatures, for example in the production of balms. Known for its high volatility, isododecane is an


example of a branched alkane used to substitute the characteristic ‘dry’ after feeling of D5, as well as acting as an excellent carrier for pigments


■ Shorter chains feel drier


■ Long chains feel richer and more persistent


■ Watch for unexpected viscosity dips in ester-heavy phases; adjust polymer gellant or wax structure as needed


■ For UV filter asses solubility and any settling (particularly for inorganic filters)


■ For pigments, assess particle size and vibrancy


■ Screen volatile/semi- volatile materials that leave low residue but remain long enough for sufficient rub‑out


■ Run simple gravimetric evaporation curves and pair those with panel notes to quantify desired textures


Figure 1: A practical selection framework for formulating


and UV filters. Hemi-squalane is an example of a plant-derived branched alkane option. Certain single esters have been developed to


provide the spreadability and slip that formulators are used to, without a heavy ‘oily’ texture that may come from a classic plant oil extract. Isoamyl laurate and coco caprylate/caprate are just a couple of examples. Each contributes a distinct sensory attribute,


allowing formulators to reconstruct silicone-like characteristics in a modular way rather than attempting a single “dropin” substitute.


A practical selection framework (what to look for in an alternative) Sensorial targeting. Instead of hunting a unicorn ‘drop-in,’ specify the target feel first: dry-touch, silky-cushioned or rich-persistent. Then pick the appropriate chain length to get there.


Environmental considerations The energy consumption of the manufacture or extraction process of materials is an important consideration, especially for brands conducting life cycle assessments (LCA’s) of their products. To produce the many silicone materials used


Evaporation Spread Dispersion Slip &


■ Gravimetric: apply a fixed mass to a watch glass and track mass loss over time. If available use an IR moisture balance.


■ Panel correlation: capture when the panel feels the formulation if being absorbed vs when your curve crosses a chosen residue


threshold


in formulations, quartz (silicone dioxide) must first be reduced over carbon. This is a very high energy process involving heating the quartz over coal or coke to over one 1,000 degrees Celsius. In comparison, extraction and distillation of mineral oil, to obtain linear and branched hydrocarbons uses heat ranging in the hundreds of degrees Celsius. Energy consumed during the extraction and


■ Rub-out panels: control the number of rotations, capture initial slip, transformation during playtime and after-feel.


■ Spread diameter tests: use texture analysers or an in-vivo panel to assess the force required to spread the formulation in a set area


transportation of oils from botanical sources will vary and must be assessed on a case-by-case basis. Synthetic esterification processes will also vary too; some using traditional chemical synthetic routes and others using biocatalysts. Biodegradability is an important consideration


■ Initially keep it simple by dispersing the UV filter of pigment in the desired wetting agent as a premix. Once happy with the results, add to the rest of the formulation.


■ See how well the premix or full formulation spreads on the skin or a microscope slide then conduct images analysis or microscopy


■ For organic UV filters, test UV‑Vis outputs and for inorganic filters, check particle size distribution


Figure 2: Modular blending across chain lengths lets R&D ‘dial-in’ texture, though often, a single chain length and dosage is sufficient


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE July 2026


for brands wanting to deliver highly efficacious products that have minimal impact on the environment. The strength of the silicon-oxygen bond, which contributes to the desirable chemical inertness, and creates incredibly stable molecules renders them poorly biodegradable. In contrast, the weaker carbon-carbon bonds, found in alkanes, allow the molecules to degrade more readily. There are a variety of biodegradation tests


available from the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD); the 301


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Carbon chain length


Dispersion


Volatility and dry down


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