54 FORMULATING
Figure 6: Images of mica in an aqueous gel, with mica pre-dispersed in C12 (left) and DI water (right)
but after being left to air dry for two hours, the formulation containing C16 showed longer staying power, owed to its lower volatility, compared to D5 (shown in Figure 5). To assess the wetting capabilities of the linear
alkanes, mica was pre-mixed with C12 in a 1:1 weight ratio and incorporated into an aqueous gel base (water, glycerine and xanthan gum). This was then compared to a control formulation in which the mica was pre-mixed with DI water in a 1:1 weight ratio, before being dispersed into the gel base, via vortex mixing for 30 seconds. It is visible, as shown in Figure 6, that the
formulation using water as a wetting agent shows a greater portion of agglomerated particles, compared to the formulation containing C12 as the wetting agent. This application is particularly useful for formulators interested in creating colour cosmetics. Due to the purity and linearity in chain
length, predictions can be made on the effects of blending multiple grades. The shorter chain lengths can be combined with the longer, higher melting point, chain lengths to increase viscosity but maintaining their silky texture, examples of
1 2
which can be found in Figure 7. The linear alkanes were added to D&C Red 7
Lake (CI 15850:1) before being mixed using a Dual Asymmetric Centrifuge (DAC) mixer, set to 2000 rpm for one minute. The pre-dispersed mixtures were then added to a balm base formulation (grapeseed oil, soya wax, C22 (docosane), broccoli seed oil and vitamin E) in a 1:1 ratio before being vortex mixed for approximately ten seconds. A benchmark sample using castor oil was then
prepared in the same way. The sample using the C14 alone (formulation 1) was the least viscous of the samples and remained low viscosity once cooled; the formulation prepared with C18 (formulation 3) was the most viscous, solidifying quickly at room temperature. The sample containing a 50:50 blend of C14
and C18 (formulation 2) was the most similar to the castor oil formulation in terms of viscosity but offered an added benefit of a lighter texture on application to the skin. This example represents only one potential
configuration of linear alkane blending; however, the availability of six distinct grades enables a
3
wide combinatorial spectrum, each with their own physicochemical properties and formulation performance. This study highlights the broad range
of applications, either used singularly or in conjunction with one another, for a variety of different product formats; with both functional and aesthetic benefits, these silicone-free and biodegradable emollients offer a practical path forward for brands that want performance continuity and a simpler regulatory outlook in the UK and EU post-2027.
Conclusion The move away from cyclic silicones is accelerating a broader rethink of texture design. The good news is that we no longer have to trade compliance for feel. With high-purity, petro-based but
biodegradable linear paraffinic emollients—and careful attention to volatility, rheology, dispersion and film formation—formulators can deliver modern, elegant sensorials aligned to the EU’s 2027 landscape and beyond.
4
PCM
Figure 7: Image of formulations prepared with singular alkanes (1 and 3) or with a blend (2) and compared to castor oil (4) PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE July 2026
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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