76 MARINE INGREDIENTS
changes in skin thickness. As a consequence, the aged skin appears dried and wrinkled. GAGs are therefore becoming a new and original target in the treatment of skin ageing.
The application of 2% sea grape
formulation after 9 days’ treatment induces an overexpression of GAGs along the DEJ (Fig 5). Sea grape is able (1) to stimulate the biosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and thus helps to improve skin moisturising and (2) to replenish the skin volume.
Stimulation of collagen I synthesis Collagen is a major structural protein of which fibres contribute to the elasticity and tonicity of the skin. It increases and continues to build up until about the age of 35 when the skin reaches the peak of its mechanical strength. After that, it begins to deteriorate and the skin become thinner and eventually saggy. With age, the secretion of collagen decreases linearly with a 29% loss in secretion ability between 19 to 68 years.14 After damage, collagen biosynthesis remains at a level that is too low to allow mature skin to repair and to replace the collagen that has been lost. Therefore, the regulation of collagen synthesis can be potentially useful for cosmetic treatments.
So, the best ways to maintain a youthful, vital and healthy-looking appearance are to promote and protect collagen synthesis. Figure 6 shows the action of sea grape on the synthesis of collagen I. The percentage of the surface occupied by collagen I for the explants treated with the active after 9 days treatment reaches significantly 118% compared to untreated explants at Day 9. Therefore, sea grape is able to increase the synthesis of collagen and thus helps to restore youth appearance. This result has been confirmed by in vitro study.
Increase of the production of pro-collagen I Collagen I is synthesised from a precursor molecule called “pro-collagen”. The Type I pro-collagen is synthesised and secreted by fibroblasts which are specialised skin cells located in the dermis. It will form mature collagen which spontaneously assembles into thin collagen fibrils. Because pro- collagen I is a precursor molecule of mature collagen, its level reflects the level of the content of synthesised collagen I.15 Results, presented in Table 1, are obtained as a quantity (ng/ml) of pro- collagen I per quantity (ng/ml/µg prot.) of total proteins. ** p < 0.01 Student test. At the different concentrations tested, sea grape is able to stimulate highly significantly the synthesis of pro-collagen I by fibroblasts. With 0.5% active the increase reaches more than 50%. By activating both GAGs and collagen synthesis, sea grape appears as a true restructuring agent.
PERSONAL CARE EUROPE Table 1: Production of pro-collagen. Control Sea grape 0.5% Sea grape 1% Sea grape 2% Vitamin C 50 µg/ml
PIP (ng/ml) 288.2 ± 65.0
299.2 ± 31.7 400.8 ± 54.7
381.5 ± 38.9 487.7 ± 50.1
Anti-ageing effect of sea grape – clinical study
The first signs of ageing are seen in the skin of the face. The first areas affected are the eye corners where “crows’ feet” appear. They start at the eye external angle, as fine cracks, then spread out to form a network of wrinkles.
Sea grape provides a significant
reduction of 21% of the total roughness after only 28 days (Fig 7).
Conclusion With the increasing demand based on natural marine resource-derived agents for skin care applications, different kinds of macroalgae may be a promising source of agents with beneficial effects for skin health, especially skin ageing. Brown seaweeds are widely used, but other algal groups may offer a great potential for the cosmetics industry that is constantly looking for innovation. The present study is relative to a particular green macroalga Caulerpa lentillifera. Sea grape associated with Hydrolyzed Rice Bran proteins targets both the dermal-epidermal junction and the dermis. The product efficacy has been demonstrated by several ex vivo, in vitro and in vivo studies. It offers the possibility to both (1)
strengthen the DEJ functionality by stimulating both laminin-5 and collagen IV and therefore improving skin cohesion and increasing exchanges between the epidermis and dermis and (2) enrich and renew the extracellular matrix by increasing the synthesis of GAGs and collagen. This finally contributes to improve the skin structure, to firm the skin and reduce the saggy skin and consequently to delay the major signs of skin ageing. This product is ideal for anti-ageing face
care, specific skin care for mature skin, repairing and restructuring skin care, firming body care with a recommended use level: 1% - 5%.
PC
References 1 Mora C, Tittensor DP, Adl S, Simpson AG, Worm
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ng/ml/µg prot 71.8 ± 13.9
108.2 ± 24.1 p=0.007
103.5 ± 179 p=0.005
107.9 ± 16.3 p=0.002
155.2 ± 19.1 % stimulation 51%** 44%** 50%** 116%** there? J. Phycol. 2012; 48: 1057-1063.
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