70 MARINE INGREDIENTS
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
Control Damaged hair (control) with Capiguard
-68%***
Capiguard 1%
Figure 5: Effect of Capiguard at 1% on the intensity of the internal colouring compared to the control. ***p<0.001 Welsh’s t-test
Figure 6: Example of results obtained with the hair-tune
methodology.at1%.
deteriorates and the sound a brush makes on it changes. By recording the sound of the hair, its health can be analysed. An original device was specially developed by Spincontrol to generate standardised brushing. The device includes a comb equipped with a sound sensor to record the sound during combing. Two parameters can be analysed: the intensity and the duration of the sound. The longer and more intense the sound, the more the cuticle is damaged. The smoother the cuticle is, the more the duration of detangling decreases. An example of the results obtained with this method, called “hair-tune methodology” is shown on Figure 6. By treating previously damaged hair with
Furcellaria lumbricalis extract at 1%, the duration of untangling and the intensity of the sound are significantly reduced by 31% and 11% respectively. Furcellaria lumbricalis
extract repairs and smooths cuticles scales and facilitates detangling of hair. The smoothing effect of Furcellaria lumbricalis extract can be easily visualised on photographs taken with a scanning electron microscope (Fig 7).
Conclusion
The new active ingredient Capiguard demonstrates several interesting properties to protect hair against the effects of environmental stressors and to repair it due to its effect on the cuticle. It possesses an anti-pollution action, reduces carbonylation of hair keratin, restores the cuticle and prevents capillary stress factors from entering the fibres, and smooths hair cuticles facilitating combing. The cuticle is detoxified and protected for healthier hair. This marine depolymerised carrageenan
extracted from the red algae Furcellaria lumbricalis can be used in various hair care products such as anti-pollution daily shampoos, care products with or without rinsing, hairdressing products, or repairing serums for damaged hair.
References 1 Galliano A, Ye C, Su F, et al. Particulate matter
adheres to human hair exposed to several aerial pollution : consequences for certain hair surface properties. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2017; 39: 610-619.
2 Qu X, Niu L, Kroon B, Foltis L. Pollution damage and protection of Asian hair. Cosmetics 2018; 5(17).
3 M. L. Tate, Y. K. Kamath, S. B. Ruetsch and H.- D. Weigmann. Quantification and prevention of hair damage. Journal of the society of cosmetic chemists, 44, 347-371 (1993).
PC
A. Control (Not stressed)
B. Stressed control
C. Stress + Capiguard 1% Figure 7: Visualisation of non stressed cuticles (A), stressed cuticles (B) and the effect of Capiguard at 1% on the stressed control (C). PERSONAL CARE EUROPE June 2019
Intensity of the internal coloring in % (Vs Control)
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